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What wild fermentation is

Is wild fermented cider better?

In short

Wild or spontaneous fermentation means letting the yeasts already present on the fruit, on the equipment and in the building do the work, instead of adding a cultured strain. It is the older method and remains the norm in traditional Asturian, Basque, Norman and West Country practice.

It produces a more complex result. A spontaneous ferment begins with a succession of non-Saccharomyces yeasts that generate compounds a single cultured strain does not, before Saccharomyces cerevisiae takes over as the alcohol rises.

It is not reliably better. The same openness that produces complexity also admits spoilage organisms, and spontaneous ferments stick, acetify and develop off-characters more often than inoculated ones. Whether the trade is worth making depends on what the cider is meant to be.

Two ferments, one cellar, one harvestThe same Asturian cellar and the same 2001 crop, pressed two ways: by day twenty-eight one ferment belongs to Saccharomyces and the other to an apiculate yeast.Pneumatic pressingA 84O 16d1S 86d4S 100d16A 38S 62d28Traditional pressingA 66S 20d1A 48S 48d4A 90d16A 94d28Per cent of identified isolatesAApiculate — HanseniasporaOOxidative — Metschnikowia, PichiaSSaccharomyces — bayanus, cerevisiae
The same Asturian cellar and the same 2001 crop, pressed two ways: by day twenty-eight one ferment belongs to Saccharomyces and the other to an apiculate yeast.
Described in full
Shape
Two stacked bar charts one above the other, each with four bars. Bars are sampling days 1, 4, 16 and 28 after pressing. Each bar is divided into three segments summing to 100 per cent, and every segment carries its own percentage as a number so the reading does not depend on seeing the fill.
What is counted
The share of identified yeast isolates belonging to each group, not the number of cells. A group at 100 per cent was the only thing cultured from that sample; it does not mean nothing else was alive.
The three groups
Apiculate yeasts are Hanseniaspora valbyensis, H. uvarum and H. osmophila. Oxidative non-Saccharomyces are Metschnikowia pulcherrima and Pichia guillermondii. Saccharomyces is S. bayanus and S. cerevisiae together.
Upper chart, pneumatic pressing
Day 1: apiculate 84, oxidative 16, Saccharomyces 0. Day 4: apiculate 4, oxidative 10, Saccharomyces 86. Day 16: Saccharomyces 100. Day 28: apiculate 38, Saccharomyces 62. This is the textbook succession — non-Saccharomyces first, then a Saccharomyces takeover — except for the tail, where an apiculate yeast comes back at more than a third of isolates.
Lower chart, traditional pressing
Day 1: apiculate 66, oxidative 14, Saccharomyces 20. Day 4: apiculate 48, oxidative 4, Saccharomyces 48. Day 16: apiculate 90, Saccharomyces 10. Day 28: apiculate 94, Saccharomyces 6. Here the succession does not happen. Saccharomyces is present from the first day, never dominates, and the ferment finishes overwhelmingly apiculate.
Why it matters
Both ferments completed. Both gave dry cider of 6.4 to 6.5 per cent alcohol. The difference between them was how the fruit was pressed, and the account of cider fermentation as a fixed sequence of organisms does not survive it. Apiculate yeasts are usually described as dying out within days under rising alcohol; at 12 to 15 degrees Celsius, without sulphite, and on a must under 110 grams of sugar per litre, one of them ran the whole ferment.
What this is not
One cellar, one harvest, four ferments. It is evidence that the succession varies, not a measurement of how often it varies this way.

What is actually in the vessel

Freshly pressed juice carries a substantial and varied microbial population. Apple surfaces carry apiculate yeasts — Hanseniaspora and Kloeckera species — along with Metschnikowia, Candida, Pichia and Torulaspora, and the mill, press, hoses and vessels carry a resident population built up over years of use. Saccharomyces cerevisiae is often barely detectable on the fruit itself and arrives largely from the equipment and the building.

For the first days the apiculate yeasts dominate. They ferment relatively slowly, tolerate only a few percent alcohol, and produce esters, higher alcohols and glycerol in proportions that differ from what Saccharomyces produces. Much of the aromatic distinctiveness attributed to wild fermentation is generated in this early phase.

As alcohol rises past roughly 4%, the apiculate yeasts die back and Saccharomyces takes the ferment to completion. Lactic acid bacteria may follow, converting malic acid to lactic acid; acetic acid bacteria will follow too if oxygen is available. This sequence is what microbiologists call the succession, and it is the defining feature of a spontaneous ferment.

Wild, inoculated and the ground in between

Three approaches to starting a fermentation, and what each controls.
ApproachHow it startsWhat it givesWhat it risks
Fully spontaneousNothing added; the resident population takes overFull microbial succession; the widest range of aroma compounds; the character of a particular place and buildingSlow or failed starts, stuck ferments, acetification, mousiness, and batch-to-batch variation
Pied de cuveA small volume of juice is fermented first and used to inoculate the main batchA wild population, but a vigorous and selected one, starting fast enough to outcompete spoilageStill wild, so still variable, and the starter itself can be faulty
Sulphited then inoculatedSulphur dioxide suppresses the resident population, then a cultured strain is addedPredictable timing, predictable aroma, reliable completionLoses the succession entirely; a narrower aromatic range
Inoculated without sulphiteA cultured strain is added in sufficient quantity to dominateMost of the reliability, with some early wild activity retainedThe wild population can still assert itself if the inoculation is weak

What "better" would have to mean

If better means more complex, spontaneous fermentation usually wins. The measured range of volatile compounds in a spontaneous cider is wider, and blind panels can generally distinguish the two.

If better means more reliable, inoculation wins by a large margin, and this is why it exists. A producer who cannot afford to lose a tank does not gamble one on the resident population.

If better means more expressive of the fruit, the answer is genuinely unresolved. A cultured strain produces a narrower, cleaner aromatic profile which can let fruit character through more clearly; a wild ferment adds character of its own that may either complement the fruit or bury it. Whether the added character is the place speaking or simply the building speaking is one of the open questions in cider science, and this site does not claim it is settled.

The terroir claim is not establishedWhether a regional wild-yeast population produces a reproducible regional signature in the finished drink is an open research question in cider as it is in wine. Populations do differ between sites; that those differences survive into a finished, blended, matured product in a way a panel can attribute to region is not demonstrated.

Where it is the tradition

Asturian and Basque sidra natural is spontaneously fermented in large chestnut or stainless vessels in cool llagares and sagardotegiak, without added sulphite in much traditional practice, and the resulting cider carries lactic and volatile characters that are part of the category rather than deviations from it.

Norman practice ferments spontaneously too, but under keeving, which restricts nutrients so severely that the ferment is slow and gentle from the outset. West Country farmhouse practice ferments spontaneously in wooden casks through a cold winter, which limits the speed and the temperature.

In all three cases the tradition combines spontaneous fermentation with something that constrains it — a cool building, a nutrient-poor juice, a slow winter. Spontaneous fermentation in a warm room with nutrient-rich juice is a different and much less forgiving proposition.

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