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Damaged fruit and what it costs

Does it matter if cider apples are bruised or rotten?

In short

Bruising costs quality and rot costs more than quality. A bruise is oxidised tissue: it darkens the juice and consumes some of the phenolic material that would have given the cider structure. Brown rot and blue mould are a different problem, because some of the moulds involved produce patulin, a mycotoxin that is regulated in apple juice.

The regulatory limit exists precisely because rotten fruit is not only a quality question. Removing visibly rotten fruit before milling is the single most effective control, because patulin concentrates in and around the rotted tissue.

Frost damage, sun damage and over-ripeness are quality questions rather than safety ones, and each costs something specific.

What each kind of damage actually does

The common fruit conditions, and what each one costs.
ConditionWhat it costsWhether it can be managed after milling
BruisingColour and phenolics, through oxidation at the damaged tissuePartly — sulphite limits further browning but cannot reverse it
Brown rot or blue mouldFood safety, through patulin; also off-flavours and microbial loadNo. Sorting before milling is the control
Frost damageTexture and juice release; frosted flesh breaks down and mills badlyNo
Over-ripenessAcid, firmness and pressability; the fruit smears rather than gratingNo, though blending with firmer fruit helps the press
Under-ripenessSugar, and therefore alcohol; starch that has not convertedOnly by waiting, which is not available once the fruit is picked
Sun damageA small amount of tissue, locallySorting, if severe
Pest damageAn entry point for rot, more than direct lossSorting removes the fruit that has gone on to rot

Patulin, and why it is the one that is regulated

Patulin is a mycotoxin produced by several moulds, of which Penicillium expansum — the blue mould of stored apples — is the most important in fruit. It is heat-stable enough to survive pasteurisation and it is not removed by ordinary clarification, which is why control is a matter of what goes into the press rather than what is done afterwards.

Maximum levels for patulin in apple juice and in solid apple products are set in law in the United Kingdom and the European Union, with a lower limit for products intended for infants and young children. The instrument is a contaminants regulation rather than a cider one, and it applies to apple juice as an ingredient.

Fermentation reduces patulin substantially, so a fully fermented cider generally carries much less than the juice it was made from. That is a real mitigation and it is not a licence: the level in the juice still governs, unfermented and partly fermented products do not benefit from it, and the reduction is variable.

The practical controlSorting out visibly rotted fruit before milling is the intervention that matters, because patulin concentrates in and immediately around rotted tissue. Cutting the rot out of an otherwise sound apple removes less of it than discarding the apple does.

Windfalls: the case that is argued both ways

Fruit picked up from the orchard floor is the traditional raw material of West Country cider making, and it is also the fruit most likely to be bruised, soil-contaminated and beginning to rot. Both of those statements are true and the tension between them is real.

What resolves it in practice is time and condition rather than principle. Fruit that has just dropped, from a tree shaken deliberately, in dry weather, onto mown grass, is sound fruit that happens to be on the ground. Fruit that has been lying for three weeks in a wet autumn under an unmown sward is a different material, and no amount of tradition makes it the same one.

The distinction the trade draws — shaken fruit gathered promptly, against fruit that fell of its own accord and lay — is the one that matters, and it is why orchard floor management is a cider quality question as much as a horticultural one.

How much sorting is worth doing

Sorting is labour, and at any scale above a few tonnes it is the most expensive thing in the yard. The economic answer depends on what is being made: a juice or a low-alcohol product carries the patulin risk without the fermentation mitigation, and warrants more sorting than a cider destined to ferment fully dry.

The quality answer is less absolute than it is often stated. A small proportion of bruised fruit in a large press is a small oxidation cost. A small proportion of rotten fruit is a disproportionate microbial and off-flavour cost, because rot brings its own population with it into a vessel that is about to be a growth medium.

The one thing that is not a matter of judgement is fruit with visible mould growth, and that is what a sorting table is for.

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