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Comparison

Sulphited vs unsulphited

Why is sulphite added to cider, and what happens if it is not?

In short

Sulphur dioxide does two jobs. In its molecular form it inhibits bacteria and non-Saccharomyces yeasts, and its effectiveness depends steeply on pH — the lower the pH, the more of the added sulphite exists in the active molecular form. It also binds acetaldehyde and inhibits the enzymes that drive browning.

Working without it is entirely possible and is traditional in several regions, but the protection has to come from somewhere else: scrupulous hygiene, a low enough pH, cool fermentation, full vessels and timely racking. Spanish, Basque and much traditional English farm practice runs this way.

The cost of omitting sulphite is a wider range of outcomes — more oxidative and phenolic character, and a greater chance of a spoilage organism establishing. The cost of using it is that it suppresses the mixed population a wild ferment depends on, and that above a threshold it must be declared on the label.

The two things being compared

Each side described in its own terms first, so the table below has something to hang on.

Where they differ

Dimension by dimension. Where a row needs a qualification, it carries one rather than being simplified until it fits.

Sulphited cider and Unsulphited cider compared. Neither column is the baseline the other is measured against.
DimensionSulphited ciderUnsulphited cider
Microbial suppressionDirect, and strongly pH-dependent.Indirect, through hygiene, cool temperatures and low pH.
OxidationBinds acetaldehyde and inhibits browning enzymes.Oxidative development proceeds, which is a fault in some styles and a defining feature in others.
Effect on wild fermentationSuppresses the non-Saccharomyces population the succession depends on.Leaves it intact.
pH sensitivityThis is why an unsulphited cider from low-acid bittersweet fruit is a harder proposition than one from sharp fruit.A dose that protects a low-pH juice may do very little at high pH.High pH is a risk with or without sulphite, but the fallback options are fewer.
LabellingMust be declared above the regulated threshold.No declaration, though small amounts arise naturally in fermentation.
Variability of outcomeNarrower.Wider, in both the interesting and the unwelcome directions.
Where each is standardCommercial production almost everywhere, and much small-scale practice.Asturian and Basque sidra natural, and a portion of English farm and French fermier production.

Notes under a dimension name qualify the whole row, not one column.

When Sulphited cider is the relevant one

The circumstances in which this is the thing being described, rather than a reason to prefer it.

When Unsulphited cider is the relevant one

The circumstances in which this is the thing being described, rather than a reason to prefer it.

A misconception worth clearing up

This comparison exists partly because of the claim below, which is repeated often enough that most readers arrive holding it.

Commonly said

Sulphites in cider are what cause hangovers and headaches.

What is actually the case: Sulphite sensitivity is a real but uncommon reaction, most clearly documented in people with asthma, and it presents as respiratory symptoms rather than headache. The evidence does not support sulphite as a general cause of hangover, which is driven principally by ethanol itself.

Related comparisons

Distinctions that turn on the same thing, or that this one is routinely confused with.

What people ask next

Questions readers ask about the things this page mentions. Each one goes to the section that answers it rather than to a page written to receive the question.

Where to go next

Sources

What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.