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How cider apples are classified

What does bittersweet mean, and who decides?

In short

Bittersweet is a class in the Long Ashton classification, the English scheme that sorts cider apples by whether the juice sits above or below a threshold for acid and a threshold for tannin. A bittersweet is low in acid and high in tannin.

It is one scheme among several, and not the most detailed. France sorts fruit into five families on different thresholds; Asturias into nine technological blocks on acidity and phenolics, four of which describe compound characters that English simply has no word for; and perry pears use a fourth arrangement that behaves differently again, because pear tannin is not apple tannin.

The same variety can legitimately fall into different classes under two systems, and can move between classes when it is grown somewhere else. That is measured rather than supposed: Washington State University publishes both its thresholds and its figures, and seventeen of its seventy-three cider cultivars sit in a different quadrant from the class they carry in England. This is why every classification statement on this site names its system, its source and, where there is one, its measured basis.

The Long Ashton four quadrantsCider apples placed on acid and tannin axes, split at roughly 0.45% w/v acid and 0.2% w/v tannin.0.45%0.2%Acid, higher upwardsTannin, higher rightwardsSharpBrowns AppleCourt RoyalBittersharpKingston BlackFoxwhelpSweetSweet CoppinTaylor’sBittersweetDabinettYarlington Mill
Cider apples placed on acid and tannin axes, split at roughly 0.45% w/v acid and 0.2% w/v tannin.
Described in full
The two axes
Total acid, as malic acid in percent weight per volume of pressed juice, runs up the vertical axis. Tannin, also in percent weight per volume, runs along the horizontal axis. Both thresholds are drawn as dashed lines.
The thresholds
Acid divides at roughly 0.45% w/v; tannin at roughly 0.2% w/v. These are the figures the Long Ashton scheme states, derived from Somerset fruit analysed in the first half of the twentieth century.
Sweet, lower left
Low acid and low tannin. Contributes fermentable sugar and softness but no structure. Examples on the figure: Sweet Coppin and Taylor’s.
Bittersweet, lower right
Low acid with high tannin. The class with no equivalent in dessert fruit and the backbone of West Country blends. Examples: Dabinett and Yarlington Mill.
Sharp, upper left
High acid with low tannin. Supplies acid lift and a lower pH, which reduces bacterial spoilage risk. Examples: Browns Apple and Court Royal.
Bittersharp, upper right
High acid and high tannin together — the rarest class, and the one the recognised single-varietal cultivars cluster in. Examples: Kingston Black and Foxwhelp.
What the quadrants do not tell you
The scheme measures total tannin, not the distribution of chain lengths that decides how much of the effect is bitterness and how much astringency. It says nothing about aroma, nitrogen or fermentation behaviour.
Fruit near a boundary
Several cultivars sit close enough to a threshold that sources place them on different sides in good faith — Kingston Black is recorded as both bittersharp and sharp. The same fruit grown somewhere warmer commonly ripens to lower acid and can cross a line.

The five systems

The last of these is a different kind of object from the other four. It classifies ciders for judging rather than fruit for blending, it has no legal standing, and it was drawn where a competition needed boundaries. It is included because it is widely used and frequently mistaken for a description of traditions.

The classification systems CiderHQ uses, and what each is for.
SystemWhere fromClassesWhat it sorts on
Long AshtonEngland — the National Fruit and Cider Institute, from Somerset-grown fruitSweet, sharp, bittersweet, bittersharpTwo thresholds: total acid around 0.45% as malic, and tannin around 0.2%
French cider apple familiesFrance — codified by the Institut Français des Productions CidricolesDouce, douce-amère, amère, acidulée, aigreAcid and polyphenol content, with a distinct very-tannic amère class the English scheme does not separate
Asturian technological blocksSpain — characterised by SERIDA, published by the Consejo Regulador of DOP Sidra de AsturiasNine: dulce, dulce-amargo, amargo, semiácido, semiácido-amargo, amargo-semiácido, ácido, ácido-amargo, amargo-ácidoTotal acidity — reported as sulphuric acid, not malic — and total polyphenols as tannic acid
Perry pear classificationEngland — developed alongside the Long Ashton perry pear workSweet, medium sharp, bittersweet, bittersharpAcid and tannin in pear juice, on the same four-quadrant logic
BJCP cider categoriesUnited States — a competition judging frameworkStandard, speciality and historical categoriesThe finished drink rather than the fruit: origin, method, additions and expected sensory range

What happens when the same fruit is grown somewhere else

The clearest test of whether a class describes a fruit or a place comes from Washington State University, which grew a multinational collection of cider apples at Mount Vernon in the Skagit Valley — a cool maritime site, the closest North American analogue to the English West Country — and published its thresholds alongside its figures. That combination is unusual and it is what makes the result checkable: anyone can recompute the classification from the numbers.

Recomputing it produces a disagreement. Seventeen of the seventy-three cultivars in the programme’s database sit in a different quadrant from the class they are listed under, and the listed class is the one the fruit carries in England. Michelin, a Norman bittersweet planted across Herefordshire for a century, measures 0.14% tannin at Mount Vernon — below the 0.2% threshold that makes a fruit bitter at all. Brown Snout, Bedan and Fillbarrel do the same. The site says so itself: “some cultivars are classified differently at this site than they were classified in England.”

The peer-reviewed work behind the database states it as a finding rather than a footnote. Across eighteen cultivars assessed from 2000 to 2015, three carried less tannin than Long Ashton had historically recorded for the same fruit, and the classification of three differed from the English one — attributed by the authors to differences in climate and management. A separate four-season study of Brown Snout, Dabinett, Kingston Black and Yarlington Mill across two Washington climates found something sharper still: all four fell below 0.20% tannin and “would not be classified as bitter, unlike their historical classification at LARS”.

The same study is worth reading for what it did not find. Region made no significant difference to any of the five juice characteristics measured — cool maritime Washington and hot dry Washington gave statistically indistinguishable juice — but season did, with tannin highest in 2012 and specific gravity lowest in 2013. The lesson is not that climate does not matter. It is that the year matters at least as much as the place, and that a classification derived from one site over one period is a snapshot of both.

This is why the site never states a class without its systemA cultivar page here can carry a Long Ashton class from Somerset and a different implied class from Washington at the same time, with both shown and neither corrected to agree with the other. Averaging them, or picking the older one because it is traditional, would destroy the only interesting thing the two figures say together.

Why the systems disagree

The thresholds were set locally. Long Ashton derived its cut-offs from fruit grown at one Somerset site in the first half of the twentieth century. The French families were fitted to Normandy and Breton fruit; the Asturian classes to Asturian cultivars. Each is internally consistent and none was intended as a universal standard.

They also carve the space differently. The French scheme separates an amère class more tannic than the English bittersweet band, and uses it in small proportion. The Asturian scheme has a semiácida class with no English equivalent at all, and it is the largest group among the varieties permitted under the Asturian designation. Mapping one scheme onto another therefore loses information rather than translating it.

And the fruit itself moves. Acid falls and sugar rises as fruit ripens further in a warmer season, so a variety near a threshold can sit on one side in a cool year and the other in a warm one, or on different sides in England and in a warmer climate. Several well-known varieties are placed differently by different sources in good faith for exactly this reason.

What a class does and does not tell you

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What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.

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