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Cider apple

Foxwhelp

The oldest named English cider apple still grown, a Herefordshire bittersharp of extraordinary acidity whose identity has fractured into a family of sports, seedlings and impostors.

Also written Old Foxwhelp, Foxwhelps, Fox Whelp.

Classification
Bittersharp — Long Ashton classification
Harvest
Early (September)
Single varietal
Established as a single-varietal cider
Blend role
Acid lift, Vintage quality, Aroma, Early season
Origin
Herefordshire
Species
Malus domestica
Flowering
Pollination group 3
Vigour
Moderate
Biennial bearing
Severely biennial — a substantial crop only every other year
Keeping
Poor — mill soon after picking

How it is classified

Long Ashton classification

Bittersharp

High acid and high tannin together — the rarest and, for a single-varietal cider, the most useful class.

Basis: Above about 0.45% w/v acid and above about 0.2% w/v tannin.

A bittersharp of exceptional acidity — among the highest recorded for any cider apple in the English scheme — with tannin comfortably above the threshold.

Every classification on CiderHQ names its system. Why there is more than one.

What it contributes to a blend

A direction, not a measurement. These bands are the level of resolution the evidence supports, and they say which way adding this fruit pushes a blend rather than what the finished cider will be.

Contribution to a blend, scored 1–5 as a band. The filled segment is the typical value; the paler segments are the range.
AxisTypicalRange
AcidVery high
TanninModerate
SugarModerate
BitternessModerate
AstringencyNoticeable
AromaPronounced
BodyMedium
Based on: published analysis

Long Ashton acid and tannin ranges, with acid at the top of the scale and aroma banded high on consistent reports of a distinctive scented juice.

Delivers acid at a level nothing else in the English repertoire reaches, together with a distinctive scented character that survives fermentation.

Aroma

Descriptors associated with this fruit. Each names a character with a known cause, and association is not a promise — what reaches the glass depends on the ferment as much as on the apple.

Put Foxwhelp into a blend

Measured analysis

Each figure is shown with where and when it was taken. They are not averaged: the same cultivar grown in another climate genuinely gives different numbers, and collapsing them into one would be the most misleading thing this page could do.

Measured on the fruit

Measured on the fruit itself, before anything was done to it. These figures hold whatever was later made from the juice.

Reported analyses of Foxwhelp, by property and source — measured on the fruit
PropertyReadingWhereWhenSource
Fruit diameter2 readings, spanning 77–81 mm81 mmWSU Mount Vernon NWREC, Skagit Valley, Washington, USA2002–2017Modern analysisWashington State University Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center
77 mm (68–86)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Fruit firmness51.4 N (33.1–69.7)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Fruit weight192 g (125–258)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Juice yield564 L/tWSU Mount Vernon NWREC, Skagit Valley, Washington, USA2002–2017Modern analysisWashington State University Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center
Starch pattern index8.0 SPIUSDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit

Measured on the juice

Measured on juice as pressed, before fermentation. This is where most cider analysis lives and what the classification schemes are defined on.

Reported analyses of Foxwhelp, by property and source — measured on the juice
PropertyReadingWhereWhenSource
Brix2 readings, spanning 11.6–12.0 °Bx12.0 °BxWSU Mount Vernon NWREC, Skagit Valley, Washington, USA2002–2017Modern analysisWashington State University Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center
11.6 °Bx (6.5–16.7)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
pH2 readings, spanning 3.20–3.49 pH3.20 pHWSU Mount Vernon NWREC, Skagit Valley, Washington, USA2002–2017Modern analysisWashington State University Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center
3.49 pHUSDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Total acid2 readings, spanning 0.690–0.950 % w/v0.800–1.100 % w/vLong Ashton, Somerset, EnglandLong Ashton analyses, 1903–1985Historic analysisNational Fruit and Cider Institute / University of Bristol
0.690 % w/vWSU Mount Vernon NWREC, Skagit Valley, Washington, USA2002–2017Modern analysisWashington State University Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center
Total tannin2 readings, spanning 0.170–0.230 % w/v0.180–0.280 % w/vLong Ashton, Somerset, EnglandLong Ashton analyses, 1903–1985Historic analysisNational Fruit and Cider Institute / University of Bristol
0.170 % w/vWSU Mount Vernon NWREC, Skagit Valley, Washington, USA2002–2017Modern analysisWashington State University Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center
Fructose61.1 g/L (58.0–64.2)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Glucose15.6 g/L (13.5–17.7)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Sorbitol5.4 g/L (3.8–7.0)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Specific gravity1.048 SGWSU Mount Vernon NWREC, Skagit Valley, Washington, USA2002–2017Modern analysisWashington State University Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center
Sucrose22.0 g/L (12.2–31.8)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Titratable acidity4.0 g/L (0.8–7.2)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Total phenolics1440.0 mg/LUSDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit

5 properties here have been measured more than once. The readings are shown as they were taken and are deliberately not averaged — climate, season, ripeness at picking, the age of the tree and the analytical method all move these numbers, and a single figure would hide every one of them. Where a spread is given below a property, it is the distance between separate studies, not the variation within any one of them.

How these were measured
  • Titration of pressed juice, reported as malic acid
  • Permanganate titration against indigo carmine, reported as tannic acid equivalent
  • Titration, reported as malic acid equivalent
  • Published as 3.18 inches; converted at 25.4 mm to the inch
  • Juice pressed from 25 fruit, 2015–2017 only. Published as 256 mL/lb; converted at 2.204623 lb to the kilogram
  • Mean of the fruit sampled per accession; where a bracket is shown it is one standard deviation either side of the mean, not the observed range. Published to two decimal places and shown at the precision CiderHQ displays for the unit.
  • Mean of the fruit sampled per accession; where a bracket is shown it is one standard deviation either side of the mean, not the observed range.
  • Cornell generic starch–iodine chart, 1–8, where 1 is no hydrolysis and 8 is complete. Mean of replicate fruit; a bracket, where shown, is one standard deviation either side of it.
  • Penetrometer, mean of replicate fruit; a bracket, where shown, is one standard deviation either side of the mean.
  • Refractometer on pressed juice. Mean of replicates; a bracket, where shown, is one standard deviation either side of the mean.
  • Titration to pH 8.2 with sodium hydroxide, reported as malic acid equivalents. Mean of replicates; a bracket, where shown, is one standard deviation either side of the mean.
  • Meter on pressed juice before fermentation. Mean of replicates; a bracket, where shown, is one standard deviation either side of the mean.
  • Löwenthal permanganate titration, reported by the source as grams per litre of tannic acid equivalent and stored here as milligrams per litre by exact conversion so that it sits in one column with the Folin–Ciocalteu figures the site also holds. The two methods do not measure the same thing and are not interchangeable.
  • Enzymatic assay (Megazyme). Mean of replicates; a bracket, where shown, is one standard deviation either side of the mean.
  • D-sorbitol/xylitol assay kit (Megazyme), sorbitol dehydrogenase method. Mean of replicates; a bracket, where shown, is one standard deviation either side of the mean.
  • Exceptionally high acid, from fruit grown at one Somerset site. The figure should also be read against the identity problem: material analysed as Foxwhelp may not all have been one clone.
  • Given as a range, and one that touches the classification threshold at its lower end.
  • A chart position, not a quantity. Almost every accession here scored at or near 8, which says the fruit was picked at or past full starch conversion rather than that the cultivars are alike.
  • One harvest at one site. Soluble solids move several degrees between seasons and with crop load.
  • The published standard deviation on this reading is too large to describe real variation in the pH of apple juice and is not reproduced; the mean is.
  • A permanganate figure and a Folin–Ciocalteu figure for the same juice can differ by a factor of two. Compare this reading with other permanganate readings, not with a Folin one. The published standard deviation on this reading equals or exceeds the mean, so the interval it describes runs below zero. It is not reproduced; the mean is.

Compare within a study to see where these figures sat among the other cultivars the same work analysed — which is a more robust statement than the figures themselves, because absolute values move between laboratories and the ordering inside one study mostly survives.

Watched in the orchard

What named research programmes recorded about this fruit at their own sites. Bloom, harvest and cropping belong to a place and a run of seasons rather than to a cultivar, so they are reported site by site rather than merged.

WSU Mount Vernon cider cultivar trial

Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center, Mount Vernon, Skagit Valley, Washington · 2002–2017 · Washington State University Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center

Maritime, with cool summers and mild wet winters — the closest North American analogue to the English West Country, and the reason the programme planted European cider fruit here rather than east of the Cascades.

Mean full bloom
5 May
Harvest
4 October
Bloom density
3.8 of 5
Productivity
2.9 of 5
Growth habit
Bearing
Alternate bearing
Semi alternate
Rootstocks
MM.106, M27

Filed here as bittersharp, though the juice measured at this site falls in the sharp quadrant of the site’s own thresholds.

The class and the numbers disagree

WSU lists this fruit as bittersharp — the class it carries in England — but the juice measured at Mount Vernon falls in the sharp quadrant of the site’s own thresholds. Neither reading is an error. A class assigned on acid and tannin describes fruit grown somewhere, and this is somewhere else.

Tasted at this site

Color amber, mildly bitter. No outstanding character, will add some body and lot of acid to blends; earthy tones. Best use as blender. Sharp apple, pear, butterscotch.

Recorded by the programme from professional cidermakers in the region. One panel, one place, one set of seasons — a description of these ciders rather than of the cultivar everywhere.

Juice characteristics measured on 250 mL of pressed juice; juice yield from 25 fruit, 2015–2017 only. Bloom density, productivity and blind wood are the site’s own subjective 1–5 ratings. Figures are means across the seasons each cultivar was in the trial.

USDA-PGRU Malus germplasm characterisation

USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, in the Finger Lakes region of western New York State · 2017 · Cornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit

Humid continental, with cold winters and warm summers moderated by the Finger Lakes — a sharper seasonal swing than any of the European cider regions whose fruit the collection holds, and warm enough in late summer to bring acid down faster than a maritime autumn does.

Held as
PI 589318, held as “Foxwhelp”
Published here, not republished by CiderHQ
  • Published standard deviation on juice pH, published as mean 3.49, standard deviation 3.4. A standard deviation of that size cannot describe real variation in the pH of apple juice. The mean is published; the interval is not.
  • Published standard deviation on total phenolics, published as mean 1440 mg/L, standard deviation 2000 mg/L. The deviation equals or exceeds the mean, so the interval it describes runs below zero. Something in the replicates for this accession went wrong, and CiderHQ publishes the mean without pretending to know the spread.

One harvest season. Fruit assessed for weight, diameter, starch pattern index on the Cornell 1–8 chart and flesh firmness by penetrometer; juice pressed and measured for soluble solids by refractometer, titratable acidity by titration to pH 8.2 as malic acid, pH by meter, total phenolics by Löwenthal permanganate titration as tannic acid equivalent, and glucose, fructose, sucrose and sorbitol by enzymatic assay.

In the orchard

Harvest window
Early
Flowering
Pollination group 3
Vigour
Moderate
Cropping
Severely biennial — a substantial crop only every other year
Keeping
Poor — mill soon after picking

Late September into October. The fruit does not hang long and should be milled promptly.

A famously poor and irregular cropper on a tree that is prone to canker. This, more than fashion, is why the cultivar declined.

Mid-season flowering.

Disease and pest susceptibility

Recorded susceptibility. Pressure differs enormously by region and by season, so these are tendencies rather than predictions.
IssueSusceptibilityNote
CankerhighSevere canker is the classic complaint against Foxwhelp and the usual cause of tree loss.
Scabhigh

Juice and pressing

How it is used

On its own

Established as a single-varietal cider

Historically the single-varietal cider apple of England, and still made as one. The acid is severe enough that a Foxwhelp varietal is a demanding drink, and many producers blend a little sweet fruit in rather than bottle it straight.

About Foxwhelp

Foxwhelp is the oldest name in English cider that still has fruit attached to it. Seventeenth-century writers on Herefordshire orchards named it alongside the Redstreak as the county’s two great cider apples, and while the Redstreak has gone, something called Foxwhelp is still grown and still pressed. What it gives is acid — malic acid at a concentration nothing else in the English repertoire approaches — together with a scented character that is hard to describe and easy to recognise, and enough tannin to keep the whole thing from being merely sour.

The identity is the problem, and it is worse than the usual cider-apple confusion. By the nineteenth century orchardists were already distinguishing "Old Foxwhelp" from lookalikes and using the term "Bastard Foxwhelp" for fruit that resembled it and was known not to be it. Selections were made and named — Broxwood Foxwhelp, Bulmer’s Foxwhelp — and propagated locally alongside the original and alongside chance seedlings that inherited the acid. Modern collections hold accessions under several of these names. Whether any of them descends from the tree Beale and Evelyn were writing about is not established and probably cannot be.

The tree explains the decline. Foxwhelp cankers badly, crops irregularly and shyly, and drops its fruit in a short early window. A seventeenth-century orchard that valued the cider above all else could carry that; a twentieth-century one planting for tonnage could not. It survives because a handful of producers want the acid and want the name, and because the name is a genuine piece of English cider history rather than a marketing conceit.

For blending purposes the practical point is pH. A juice this acidic pulls a bittersweet-dominated blend down into a range where sulphite works properly and lactic spoilage is much less likely, and it does so at a small percentage. Makers who use Foxwhelp for that reason rather than for its flavour are using it exactly as eighteenth-century Herefordshire did.

Names, origin and identity

Cultivar naming is the hardest problem in cider fruit data. The same tree carries different names across ten miles, and two different trees have shared a name for two centuries.

Origin · traditional account

Named in seventeenth-century cider writing, which makes it the earliest English cider apple with a continuous documented name. Whether trees grown today descend from the fruit those writers described is a separate and unresolved question.

Other names this fruit is known by. Each is a name for the same cultivar, not a separate one — which is why none of them has a page of its own.
NameKindNote
Old FoxwhelpHistoric spellingUsed to distinguish the original from the later Broxwood and Bulmer’s selections.
Red FoxwhelpDisputed identityApplied variously to the original, to Broxwood Foxwhelp and to unrelated red-striped Herefordshire fruit.
Bastard FoxwhelpDisputed identityA nineteenth-century name for fruit resembling Foxwhelp but known not to be it. That such a term was needed indicates how early the confusion began.

Why it matters

Related cultivars

Recorded relationships, including the ones this fruit is routinely confused with.

Parentage

Fruit that plays a similar part

Cultivars sharing a classification under the same system and a comparable role in a blend. Not a similarity score — a stated relationship.

Styles it is characteristic of

Where it grows

What people ask next

Questions readers ask about the things this page mentions. Each one goes to the section that answers it rather than to a page written to receive the question.

Where to go next

Sources

What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.

Traditional record Evidence standard for this record. What that means.