Skip to content
CiderHQ
Search

Region

Herefordshire

The English county where cider was first treated as a subject for study rather than a farm by-product, and which now supplies more cider fruit than anywhere else in the United Kingdom.

Also written Hereford, the Wye Valley.

Country
England
Parent region
None — a top-level region
Classification in use
Long Ashton classification
Protected designations
2 applying here
The English and Welsh cider countiesWhere English and Welsh cider is made, with the difference between a protected county name and a cultural region drawn rather than described.HfdsWorcsGlosSomersetDevonWalesBristol ChannelMidlandsProtected name — a boundary in law“West Country” — no boundary at allSchematic. Shapes are indicative, not surveyed.
Where English and Welsh cider is made, with the difference between a protected county name and a cultural region drawn rather than described.
Described in full
Shape
A schematic outline of Wales, the English south-west peninsula and the west Midlands, separated by the Bristol Channel and the Severn estuary. Three small outlined areas sit on the Welsh border and the lower Severn; a soft unbordered wash spreads across the peninsula beneath them.
The key, and why it matters
A solid outline means a name with a boundary in law. A soft wash with no edge means a cultural region that has never been defined by anything. Drawing both the same way would give one of them a precision it does not have.
The protected names
Herefordshire, Worcestershire and Gloucestershire each hold protected names for both cider and perry, and each is a county with an administrative boundary that the specification refers to.
The West Country
Drawn as a wash across Somerset, Devon and the ground east of them. It is the phrase the tradition uses about itself and it protects nothing: there is no register entry, no boundary and no specification behind it.
Wales
Traditional Welsh Cider and Traditional Welsh Perry are protected names covering the whole country rather than a county, which is a different shape of protection again and is why Wales is not subdivided here.
What is not shown
Kent, Sussex, East Anglia, Yorkshire and Shropshire all have cider, and none of it is on this map. The map is about the concentration, not the distribution.
Precision
Every shape here is indicative. The coastline is simplified to the point of being diagrammatic and the county outlines are approximate. Nothing on this figure should be measured off, and where an exact boundary matters the specification is the authority.

Climate and land

The first thing to know about a cider region, because it sets what the fruit can be. Ripening date, the acid that survives to the press and the sugar that reaches the vat are all decided here, and they are what makes one tradition's answers wrong for another's fruit.

Herefordshire sits in the lee of the Welsh mountains, and that shelter is the whole agricultural argument for the county. Air moving in from the Atlantic drops much of its water on the Black Mountains and the Brecon Beacons before it reaches the Wye and Lugg valleys, so the county is markedly drier than Somerset or west Wales at the same latitude while keeping mild winters and a long growing season. Fruit therefore ripens further into the autumn without the fungal pressure that constant wetting brings, and juice tends to arrive at the mill with higher sugar and sounder skins than in wetter western counties. The cost of the same topography is cold air drainage: the valley bottoms that grow the best fruit are also frost hollows, and a late spring frost during blossom remains the single largest source of year-to-year variation in the crop.

Soils

Much of the county lies on Old Red Sandstone, weathering to deep, free-draining, iron-red loams that suit vigorous standard apple trees and hold enough moisture through a dry summer to carry a crop without irrigation. The heavier silts of the river floodplains are traditionally left to grass and grazing rather than planted.

The orchards

How the fruit is actually grown here — tree form, planting, what else the ground is used for, and who owns it.

The words used here

Each of these names something the tradition does. They are given in the local language because that is the form a reader will meet them in — on a label, on a cider-house door, or in a conversation about how the cider is poured.

Local terms and what they mean. A translation is given where one is honest; where the practice has no English equivalent, the entry describes the practice instead of inventing a word for it.
TermLanguageWhat it means
the three countiesHerefordshire, Gloucestershire and Worcestershire treated as one cider and perry region, which they are in fruit, practice and vocabulary even though they are three administrative counties.
pomaceThe milled apple pulp: what comes out of the mill and goes into the press, and what is left after pressing.
cheeseThe stack built for a rack-and-cloth press — successive layers of pomace wrapped in cloth and separated by wooden racks, built up into a squared block before pressure is applied.
hairThe horsehair cloth traditionally used to wrap each layer of a cheese, now generally replaced by woven synthetic press cloths.
millBoth the machine that crushes the fruit and the act of crushing it. The historic form is a stone trough with a stone wheel turned by a horse; the modern equivalent is a rotating knife or hammer mill.
standardA full-size orchard tree on vigorous rootstock with a clear trunk, planted at low density and traditionally grazed beneath. Contrasted with a bush orchard tree, which is smaller, denser-planted and picked from the ground.

History

How cider making here came to take the shape it has.

Culture

What the drink is for here, and the occasions and rooms it belongs to. This is not decoration around the cider — in several of these places it is the part that decides how the cider is made.

About Herefordshire

Herefordshire is where English cider acquired a literature. Other counties made more of it per head and several made it for longer, but it was here, in the middle of the seventeenth century, that landowners and writers began to treat orchard planting as an agricultural improvement worth arguing for in print, and cider as a drink capable of being made well or badly rather than simply made. That literature is why the county appears at the front of almost every English-language history of the subject.

The physical basis for it is shelter. Sitting behind the Welsh hills, Herefordshire receives substantially less rain than the West Country while retaining mild winters, and its Old Red Sandstone soils drain freely. Fruit hangs late, ripens well and comes in with sound skins, which matters more than it sounds: a great deal of what separates good juice from poor juice is whether the fruit reached the mill without rot. The corresponding weakness is frost, since the valley sites that grow the fruit best are the ones cold air settles into.

The county’s modern significance is industrial rather than vernacular. From the late nineteenth century Hereford became a centre of large-scale cider production, and the relationship that developed — specialist growers on contract, fruit moved by lorry, fermentation and blending centralised — reorganised the whole English industry around the county. Most cider fruit grown in Britain today is grown in and around Herefordshire, and most of it is grown in bush orchards to a processor’s variety specification.

That leaves the county with two cider cultures running side by side and not much overlap between them. One is a national drinks business making a consistent, filtered, carbonated product from concentrate and fresh juice at scale. The other is a small farmhouse and craft sector working with whole fruit, wild or semi-wild fermentation and long maturation, often on standard orchards that survive because nobody grubbed them out. The second is far more visible in writing about cider than its volume warrants, and the first is far less visible than its volume warrants; a reader should hold both.

The county is also perry country, sharing with Gloucestershire and Worcestershire the belt of perry pear cultivation that has no real equivalent anywhere else in the world except a narrow strip of Normandy and the Austrian Mostviertel. Perry pears here are slow, huge, long-lived trees that no commercial planting economics can justify, which is precisely why the surviving ones are old and why their conservation depends on people who are not making a living from them.

How fruit is classified here

Every classification statement on CiderHQ names its system, because the schemes disagree in good faith and none of them is universal.

The fruit grown here

Cultivars recorded as grown in this region, historically or currently. Each card says what the fruit is.

What is made here

Styles this region is where they come from, or where they are characteristically made.

Methods traditional here

Processes that belong to this region's practice rather than being applied to it from outside.

Protected designations that apply here

What a name is legally reserved for in this area. A designation protects a name; it is not a quality mark.

What people ask next

Questions readers ask about the things this page mentions. Each one goes to the section that answers it rather than to a page written to receive the question.

Where to go next

Sources

What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.