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Cider apple

Ellis Bitter

An early Devon bittersweet, large and conical and deep red, giving good early-season tannin from a tree that crops heavily and unevenly.

Also written Ellis’s Bitter, Ellis.

Classification
Bittersweet — Long Ashton classification
Harvest
Early (September)
Single varietal
Rarely bottled on its own
Blend role
Bittersweet base, Early season, Tannin and structure
Origin
Devon
Species
Malus domestica
Flowering
Pollination group 3
Vigour
Vigorous
Biennial bearing
Markedly biennial — heavy and light years alternate
Keeping
Poor — mill soon after picking

How it is classified

Long Ashton classification

Bittersweet

Low acid, high tannin. The class that has no real equivalent in dessert fruit and that defines West Country cider.

Basis: Below about 0.45% w/v acid and above about 0.2% w/v tannin.

A full bittersweet, though milder on the palate than the tannin figure suggests.

Every classification on CiderHQ names its system. Why there is more than one.

What it contributes to a blend

A direction, not a measurement. These bands are the level of resolution the evidence supports, and they say which way adding this fruit pushes a blend rather than what the finished cider will be.

Contribution to a blend, scored 1–5 as a band. The filled segment is the typical value; the paler segments are the range.
AxisTypicalRange
AcidVery low
TanninFirm
SugarModerate
BitternessModerate
AstringencyNoticeable
AromaRestrained
BodyFull
Based on: published analysis

Long Ashton acid and tannin ranges, with bitterness banded below the total because the fruit is described as soft-tannined.

Adds soft early-season tannin and body without much bite.

Aroma

No aroma descriptors are recorded for Ellis Bitter, and for a great deal of cider fruit that is a finding rather than a gap. Bittersweet apples in particular contribute tannin, sugar and body while being close to aromatically mute, and most of what a cider made from them smells of was produced by the fermentation rather than carried in by the fruit. CiderHQ publishes the absence rather than filling the space with descriptors nothing supports.

Put Ellis Bitter into a blend

Measured analysis

Each figure is shown with where and when it was taken. They are not averaged: the same cultivar grown in another climate genuinely gives different numbers, and collapsing them into one would be the most misleading thing this page could do.

Measured on the fruit

Measured on the fruit itself, before anything was done to it. These figures hold whatever was later made from the juice.

Reported analyses of Ellis Bitter, by property and source — measured on the fruit
PropertyReadingWhereWhenSource
Fruit diameter59 mm (48–69)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Fruit firmness57.3 N (48.5–66.0)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Fruit weight154 g (134–175)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Starch pattern index8.0 SPIUSDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit

Measured on the juice

Measured on juice as pressed, before fermentation. This is where most cider analysis lives and what the classification schemes are defined on.

Reported analyses of Ellis Bitter, by property and source — measured on the juice
PropertyReadingWhereWhenSource
Total acid2 readings, spanning 0.170–0.200 % w/v0.120–0.220 % w/vLong Ashton, Somerset, EnglandLong Ashton analyses, 1903–1985Historic analysisNational Fruit and Cider Institute / University of Bristol
0.200 % w/vLong Ashton Research Station, near Bristol, Somerset, England1905–1975Historic analysisAndrew Lea
Total tannin2 readings, spanning 0.240–0.290 % w/v0.240–0.340 % w/vLong Ashton, Somerset, EnglandLong Ashton analyses, 1903–1985Historic analysisNational Fruit and Cider Institute / University of Bristol
0.240 % w/vLong Ashton Research Station, near Bristol, Somerset, England1905–1975Historic analysisAndrew Lea
Brix9.6 °Bx (8.4–10.8)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Fructose25.6 g/L (21.6–29.6)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Glucose12.3 g/L (8.6–16.0)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
pH4.79 pH (4.71–4.87)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Sorbitol5.5 g/L (3.7–7.3)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Sucrose21.2 g/L (7.4–35.0)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Titratable acidity1.1 g/L (0.9–1.3)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Total phenolics1440.0 mg/L (1370.0–1510.0)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit

2 properties here have been measured more than once. The readings are shown as they were taken and are deliberately not averaged — climate, season, ripeness at picking, the age of the tree and the analytical method all move these numbers, and a single figure would hide every one of them. Where a spread is given below a property, it is the distance between separate studies, not the variation within any one of them.

How these were measured
  • Titration of pressed juice, reported as malic acid
  • Mean of the fruit sampled per accession; where a bracket is shown it is one standard deviation either side of the mean, not the observed range. Published to two decimal places and shown at the precision CiderHQ displays for the unit.
  • Mean of the fruit sampled per accession; where a bracket is shown it is one standard deviation either side of the mean, not the observed range.
  • Cornell generic starch–iodine chart, 1–8, where 1 is no hydrolysis and 8 is complete. Mean of replicate fruit; a bracket, where shown, is one standard deviation either side of it.
  • Penetrometer, mean of replicate fruit; a bracket, where shown, is one standard deviation either side of the mean.
  • Refractometer on pressed juice. Mean of replicates; a bracket, where shown, is one standard deviation either side of the mean.
  • Titration to pH 8.2 with sodium hydroxide, reported as malic acid equivalents. Mean of replicates; a bracket, where shown, is one standard deviation either side of the mean.
  • Meter on pressed juice before fermentation. Mean of replicates; a bracket, where shown, is one standard deviation either side of the mean.
  • Löwenthal permanganate titration, reported by the source as grams per litre of tannic acid equivalent and stored here as milligrams per litre by exact conversion so that it sits in one column with the Folin–Ciocalteu figures the site also holds. The two methods do not measure the same thing and are not interchangeable.
  • Enzymatic assay (Megazyme). Mean of replicates; a bracket, where shown, is one standard deviation either side of the mean.
  • D-sorbitol/xylitol assay kit (Megazyme), sorbitol dehydrogenase method. Mean of replicates; a bracket, where shown, is one standard deviation either side of the mean.
  • Titration with alkali, reported as malic acid. Composite figure across many seasons; the source states neither the sample count nor the year of any individual analysis.
  • Löwenthal permanganate titration, reported as tannic acid equivalent. Composite figure across many seasons; the source states neither the sample count nor the year of any individual analysis.
  • Historic single-site fruit.
  • Recorded as a range. The measured total does not capture that this cultivar’s tannin reads as softer than its neighbours at the same level.
  • A chart position, not a quantity. Almost every accession here scored at or near 8, which says the fruit was picked at or past full starch conversion rather than that the cultivars are alike.
  • One harvest at one site. Soluble solids move several degrees between seasons and with crop load.
  • A permanganate figure and a Folin–Ciocalteu figure for the same juice can differ by a factor of two. Compare this reading with other permanganate readings, not with a Folin one.
  • A composite of Long Ashton analyses reaching CiderHQ through three hands: the station’s own work, a printed compilation (Bulmer’s Pomona, 1987, and Beech and Carr, 1977), and a transcription of that compilation. CiderHQ has seen only the transcription.
  • A composite of Long Ashton analyses reaching CiderHQ through three hands: the station’s own work, a printed compilation (Bulmer’s Pomona, 1987, and Beech and Carr, 1977), and a transcription of that compilation. CiderHQ has seen only the transcription. A permanganate figure. It is not comparable with a Folin–Ciocalteu total-phenolics figure for the same fruit, and the two can differ by a factor of two.

Compare within a study to see where these figures sat among the other cultivars the same work analysed — which is a more robust statement than the figures themselves, because absolute values move between laboratories and the ordering inside one study mostly survives.

Watched in the orchard

What named research programmes recorded about this fruit at their own sites. Bloom, harvest and cropping belong to a place and a run of seasons rather than to a cultivar, so they are reported site by site rather than merged.

USDA-PGRU Malus germplasm characterisation

USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, in the Finger Lakes region of western New York State · 2017 · Cornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit

Humid continental, with cold winters and warm summers moderated by the Finger Lakes — a sharper seasonal swing than any of the European cider regions whose fruit the collection holds, and warm enough in late summer to bring acid down faster than a maritime autumn does.

Held as
PI 589650, held as “Ellis Bitter”

One harvest season. Fruit assessed for weight, diameter, starch pattern index on the Cornell 1–8 chart and flesh firmness by penetrometer; juice pressed and measured for soluble solids by refractometer, titratable acidity by titration to pH 8.2 as malic acid, pH by meter, total phenolics by Löwenthal permanganate titration as tannic acid equivalent, and glucose, fructose, sucrose and sorbitol by enzymatic assay.

Long Ashton composite cider apple analyses

Long Ashton Research Station, near Bristol, North Somerset, England · 1905–1975 · Andrew Lea

Maritime and mild, with wet autumns and few hard frosts — the climate the English cider cultivars were selected in, and the reason their acid and tannin figures here are the ones the rest of the world has spent a century comparing its own fruit against.

Held as
Listed as “Ellis Bitter”, early season

Filed here as bittersweet.

Freshly expressed juice, not finished cider. Acid by straight titration against alkali, reported as malic acid; tannin by Löwenthal permanganate titration, reported as tannic acid equivalent. Composite figures across seventy years of analyses: the source gives neither a sample count nor the year of any individual reading.

In the orchard

Harvest window
Early
Flowering
Pollination group 3
Vigour
Vigorous
Cropping
Markedly biennial — heavy and light years alternate
Keeping
Poor — mill soon after picking

Mid to late September. One of the earliest useful bittersweets.

Heavy in its on years and light in its off ones, and the fruit drops all at once.

Softens quickly once ripe.

Disease and pest susceptibility

Recorded susceptibility. Pressure differs enormously by region and by season, so these are tendencies rather than predictions.
IssueSusceptibilityNote
Scabmoderate
Cankermoderate

Juice and pressing

How it is used

On its own

Rarely bottled on its own

Occasionally bottled alone. Soft and full without acid, which limits how interesting it can be.

About Ellis Bitter

Ellis Bitter is a large, handsome, deep-red conical apple that ripens in September, which puts it in a small group of cultivars a maker can use to give early cider some substance. Its tannin is genuinely high by the numbers and reads soft on the palate — closer to Dabinett than to Tremlett’s Bitter in effect, despite a similar analysis to the latter.

The tree crops heavily and drops its whole crop in a short window, which is convenient for a mill with capacity and a nuisance for one without. Combined with fruit that does not keep, this makes Ellis Bitter a cultivar that dictates its own schedule: it is pressed when it falls or it is wasted.

The name is a persistent source of confusion. In Devon orchard talk both this and Tremlett’s Bitter get shortened to "the bitter", and old planting records that use that shorthand cannot be resolved. The two apples look different and taste very different, so a standing tree can be identified — but a written list cannot.

Names, origin and identity

Cultivar naming is the hardest problem in cider fruit data. The same tree carries different names across ten miles, and two different trees have shared a name for two centuries.

Origin · traditional account

A Devon cultivar attributed to a family named Ellis. Nothing further is recorded, and the attribution rests on the name alone.

Related cultivars

Recorded relationships, including the ones this fruit is routinely confused with.

Fruit that plays a similar part

Cultivars sharing a classification under the same system and a comparable role in a blend. Not a similarity score — a stated relationship.

Styles it is characteristic of

Where it grows

What people ask next

Questions readers ask about the things this page mentions. Each one goes to the section that answers it rather than to a page written to receive the question.

Where to go next

Sources

What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.

Traditional record Evidence standard for this record. What that means.