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Region

Devon

A West Country cider county with its own cultivars and a lighter, softer style than Somerset’s, and the place where cider’s most serious historic public health problem was identified and explained.

Also written the West Country.

Country
England
Parent region
None — a top-level region
Classification in use
Long Ashton classification
Protected designations
None applying here
The English and Welsh cider countiesWhere English and Welsh cider is made, with the difference between a protected county name and a cultural region drawn rather than described.HfdsWorcsGlosSomersetDevonWalesBristol ChannelMidlandsProtected name — a boundary in law“West Country” — no boundary at allSchematic. Shapes are indicative, not surveyed.
Where English and Welsh cider is made, with the difference between a protected county name and a cultural region drawn rather than described.
Described in full
Shape
A schematic outline of Wales, the English south-west peninsula and the west Midlands, separated by the Bristol Channel and the Severn estuary. Three small outlined areas sit on the Welsh border and the lower Severn; a soft unbordered wash spreads across the peninsula beneath them.
The key, and why it matters
A solid outline means a name with a boundary in law. A soft wash with no edge means a cultural region that has never been defined by anything. Drawing both the same way would give one of them a precision it does not have.
The protected names
Herefordshire, Worcestershire and Gloucestershire each hold protected names for both cider and perry, and each is a county with an administrative boundary that the specification refers to.
The West Country
Drawn as a wash across Somerset, Devon and the ground east of them. It is the phrase the tradition uses about itself and it protects nothing: there is no register entry, no boundary and no specification behind it.
Wales
Traditional Welsh Cider and Traditional Welsh Perry are protected names covering the whole country rather than a county, which is a different shape of protection again and is why Wales is not subdivided here.
What is not shown
Kent, Sussex, East Anglia, Yorkshire and Shropshire all have cider, and none of it is on this map. The map is about the concentration, not the distribution.
Precision
Every shape here is indicative. The coastline is simplified to the point of being diagrammatic and the county outlines are approximate. Nothing on this figure should be measured off, and where an exact boundary matters the specification is the authority.

Climate and land

The first thing to know about a cider region, because it sets what the fruit can be. Ripening date, the acid that survives to the press and the sugar that reaches the vat are all decided here, and they are what makes one tradition's answers wrong for another's fruit.

Devon has two coasts and a granite upland between them, and its orchards sit in the sheltered valleys either side of Dartmoor rather than on it. The county is mild, very wet in the west and on the moor fringes, and almost frost-free near the south coast, so trees come into blossom early and the growing season is long. High humidity through the summer keeps fungal pressure severe, and canker is the county’s characteristic orchard disease. Because the season is gentle rather than hot, fruit accumulates sugar steadily but not intensely, and the traditional Devon cultivars tend to be lower in tannin and lower in acid than Somerset bittersweets, giving juice that ferments to something lighter in body. The east of the county, towards the Blackdown Hills and the Otter and Culm valleys, is drier and warmer and has historically been the best orchard ground.

Soils

Deep red Permian sandstone soils in east and mid Devon are the county’s best fruit ground — free-draining, warm in spring and easily worked. The acid, shallow, peaty soils of the Dartmoor fringe support little orcharding and mark the practical edge of the fruit-growing country.

The orchards

How the fruit is actually grown here — tree form, planting, what else the ground is used for, and who owns it.

The words used here

Each of these names something the tradition does. They are given in the local language because that is the form a reader will meet them in — on a label, on a cider-house door, or in a conversation about how the cider is poured.

Local terms and what they mean. A translation is given where one is honest; where the practice has no English equivalent, the entry describes the practice instead of inventing a word for it.
TermLanguageWhat it means
pound houseThe building on a farm containing the mill and press. Common to Devon and Somerset usage.
Devonshire colicThe historic name for lead poisoning contracted from cider made or stored in lead-containing equipment, identified as such in the eighteenth century.
shakingBringing fruit down by shaking the tree and gathering it from the orchard floor, the standard harvest method for cider fruit.
pomaceThe milled pulp before pressing, and the pressed cake afterwards; in Devon traditionally returned to the orchard or fed to stock.
wassailA midwinter orchard ceremony addressed to the trees, involving noise, drink poured at the roots and a toast. Recorded in the county from the eighteenth century onwards and widely revived since the late twentieth.

History

How cider making here came to take the shape it has.

Culture

What the drink is for here, and the occasions and rooms it belongs to. This is not decoration around the cider — in several of these places it is the part that decides how the cider is made.

About Devon

Devon is usually treated as Somerset’s quieter neighbour, and in volume terms that is fair, but the county’s fruit is genuinely different and produces a different drink. The traditional Devon cultivars run lower in tannin than the Somerset bittersweets and often lower in acid as well, so the cider they make is lighter-bodied and softer, with less grip and a shorter finish. Whether that is a virtue is a matter of taste; that it is a real distinction is not.

The county’s orchard geography is dictated by Dartmoor. Fruit growing occupies the warm red-soil valleys of the east and the sheltered south, and stops where the moor begins. Because the climate is mild and wet rather than hot, and because storage life in a damp maritime autumn is short, Devon varieties tend to be earlier and to be pressed sooner after gathering than fruit further inland.

Devon holds an important and unglamorous place in the history of the drink. The eighteenth-century identification of lead in cider equipment as the cause of a widespread and sometimes fatal colic was the first time the making of cider was subjected to systematic clinical investigation, and it changed how presses, mills and storage vessels were built. Any honest account of historic farm cider has to include the fact that some of it was actively harmful, and that the harm was traced to a specific, avoidable cause.

The modern county has a numerous small-producer sector, much of it working with orchards of a few dozen trees and with cultivars that exist in no commercial nursery catalogue. A good deal of Devon’s cider activity is therefore conservation-adjacent: grafting, identifying and keeping local varieties in production is part of what the makers are doing, whether or not they describe it that way.

How fruit is classified here

Every classification statement on CiderHQ names its system, because the schemes disagree in good faith and none of them is universal.

The fruit grown here

Cultivars recorded as grown in this region, historically or currently. Each card says what the fruit is.

What is made here

Styles this region is where they come from, or where they are characteristically made.

Methods traditional here

Processes that belong to this region's practice rather than being applied to it from outside.

Protected designations that apply here

None recorded

No protected designation or national definition on CiderHQ reserves a name for this area. That is a fact about the register rather than about the cider: a great deal of excellent cider is made in places no designation covers, and a designation would say nothing about how good it is.

What people ask next

Questions readers ask about the things this page mentions. Each one goes to the section that answers it rather than to a page written to receive the question.

Where to go next

Sources

What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.