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Cider apple

Kermerrien

The Breton bitter apple most often named on a bottle: firmly tannic, distinctly aromatic, and one of the few French cider cultivars with a genuine claim to standing alone.

Also written Kermerien.

Classification
Bitter — French cider apple families
Harvest
Late (Late October)
Single varietal
Established as a single-varietal cider
Blend role
Tannin and structure, Aroma, Vintage quality, Late season
Origin
Finistère, Brittany
Species
Malus domestica
Flowering
Pollination group 4
Vigour
Vigorous
Biennial bearing
Markedly biennial — heavy and light years alternate
Keeping
Good

How it is classified

French cider apple families

Bitter · Amère

Very high tannin with low acid — more tannic than the bittersweet family and used in smaller proportion.

Basis: Tannin above 3 g/L and acidity below 3 g/L as H₂SO₄.

Assigned to the bitter family, though some Breton sources place it in the bittersweet one. The difference is real and reflects site as much as disagreement: its polyphenol content varies substantially between orchards.

Every classification on CiderHQ names its system. Why there is more than one.

What it contributes to a blend

A direction, not a measurement. These bands are the level of resolution the evidence supports, and they say which way adding this fruit pushes a blend rather than what the finished cider will be.

Contribution to a blend, scored 1–5 as a band. The filled segment is the typical value; the paler segments are the range.
AxisTypicalRange
AcidLow
TanninFirm
SugarHigh
BitternessMarked
AstringencyDrying
AromaPronounced
BodyFull
Based on: its recorded classification

French bitter family placement, with wide bands because the recorded disagreement over its class is itself evidence of variability.

A hard, dry bitterness with a resinous edge, and an aroma that persists through fermentation. More interesting than most bitter fruit and correspondingly easier to overdo.

Aroma

Descriptors associated with this fruit. Each names a character with a known cause, and association is not a promise — what reaches the glass depends on the ferment as much as on the apple.

Put Kermerrien into a blend

Measured analysis

Each figure is shown with where and when it was taken. They are not averaged: the same cultivar grown in another climate genuinely gives different numbers, and collapsing them into one would be the most misleading thing this page could do.

Measured on the fruit

Measured on the fruit itself, before anything was done to it. These figures hold whatever was later made from the juice.

Reported analyses of Kermerrien, by property and source — measured on the fruit
PropertyReadingWhereWhenSource
Fruit diameter61 mmWSU Mount Vernon NWREC, Skagit Valley, Washington, USA2002–2017Modern analysisWashington State University Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center
Juice yield395 L/tWSU Mount Vernon NWREC, Skagit Valley, Washington, USA2002–2017Modern analysisWashington State University Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center

Measured on the juice

Measured on juice as pressed, before fermentation. This is where most cider analysis lives and what the classification schemes are defined on.

Reported analyses of Kermerrien, by property and source — measured on the juice
PropertyReadingWhereWhenSource
Brix12.5 °BxWSU Mount Vernon NWREC, Skagit Valley, Washington, USA2002–2017Modern analysisWashington State University Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center
pH3.88 pHWSU Mount Vernon NWREC, Skagit Valley, Washington, USA2002–2017Modern analysisWashington State University Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center
Specific gravity1.050 SGWSU Mount Vernon NWREC, Skagit Valley, Washington, USA2002–2017Modern analysisWashington State University Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center
Total acid0.260 % w/vWSU Mount Vernon NWREC, Skagit Valley, Washington, USA2002–2017Modern analysisWashington State University Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center
Total tannin0.320 % w/vWSU Mount Vernon NWREC, Skagit Valley, Washington, USA2002–2017Modern analysisWashington State University Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center
How these were measured
  • Permanganate titration against indigo carmine, reported as tannic acid equivalent
  • Titration, reported as malic acid equivalent
  • Published as 2.41 inches; converted at 25.4 mm to the inch
  • Juice pressed from 25 fruit, 2015–2017 only. Published as 179 mL/lb; converted at 2.204623 lb to the kilogram

Compare within a study to see where these figures sat among the other cultivars the same work analysed — which is a more robust statement than the figures themselves, because absolute values move between laboratories and the ordering inside one study mostly survives.

Watched in the orchard

What named research programmes recorded about this fruit at their own sites. Bloom, harvest and cropping belong to a place and a run of seasons rather than to a cultivar, so they are reported site by site rather than merged.

WSU Mount Vernon cider cultivar trial

Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center, Mount Vernon, Skagit Valley, Washington · 2002–2017 · Washington State University Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center

Maritime, with cool summers and mild wet winters — the closest North American analogue to the English West Country, and the reason the programme planted European cider fruit here rather than east of the Cascades.

Mean full bloom
12 May
Harvest
1 October
Bloom density
3 of 5
Productivity
3.1 of 5
Growth habit
Spreading
Bearing
Semi Spur
Alternate bearing
Yes
Blind wood
1 of 5
Rootstocks
MM.106

Filed here as bittersweet.

Tasted at this site

Color straw to gold, moderately bitter. Cidery, creamy, bitter aftertaste lingers, but not harsh, good blender Fruity, banana, bubblegum.

Recorded by the programme from professional cidermakers in the region. One panel, one place, one set of seasons — a description of these ciders rather than of the cultivar everywhere.

Juice characteristics measured on 250 mL of pressed juice; juice yield from 25 fruit, 2015–2017 only. Bloom density, productivity and blind wood are the site’s own subjective 1–5 ratings. Figures are means across the seasons each cultivar was in the trial.

In the orchard

Harvest window
Late
Flowering
Pollination group 4
Vigour
Vigorous
Cropping
Markedly biennial — heavy and light years alternate
Keeping
Good

Late, and sweated in a heap before milling as a matter of course in Breton practice.

Disease and pest susceptibility

Recorded susceptibility. Pressure differs enormously by region and by season, so these are tendencies rather than predictions.
IssueSusceptibilityNote
Scabmoderate
Cankermoderate

Juice and pressing

How it is used

On its own

Established as a single-varietal cider

Bottled alone by a number of Breton producers. The result is firmly tannic and low in acid, and it is generally left with residual sugar; a fully dry single-varietal Kermerrien is a hard drink rather than a balanced one.

About Kermerrien

Kermerrien is the Breton answer to the question of what a bitter cider apple can do beyond supplying grip. Its tannin is high enough to place it in the bitter family, but it carries an aromatic character that most fruit at that phenolic level does not, and that combination is why it is one of the very few French cider apples routinely sold under its own name.

Its classification is genuinely unsettled, and the disagreement is informative. Sources place it in the amère family and in the douce-amère family, and Breton growers will tell you that a Kermerrien from a thin upland site and one from deep valley soil are not the same drink. Polyphenol content in cider apples is strongly site-dependent, and Kermerrien appears to be more responsive to site than most, which means a classification statement about it carries less predictive weight than the same statement about, say, Bedan.

As with the Norman bitters, its behaviour assumes keeving. The juice is low in nitrogen, the ferment is expected to stall, and the residual sweetness left behind is what makes the tannin readable rather than punishing. A fully attenuated Kermerrien is a legitimate thing to make and it is not what the fruit was selected for, which is worth saying plainly because the single-varietal bottlings that reach export markets are not always made the traditional way.

In the orchard it is vigorous, strongly alternate-bearing and slow to settle into a cropping rhythm, so it is planted in smaller blocks than the Breton sweet fruit and treated as a quality crop rather than a volume one.

Names, origin and identity

Cultivar naming is the hardest problem in cider fruit data. The same tree carries different names across ten miles, and two different trees have shared a name for two centuries.

Origin · traditional account

Named after a Breton place-name element (kêr, a hamlet or homestead). Local origin is very likely; documentation of it is not.

Why it matters

Related cultivars

Recorded relationships, including the ones this fruit is routinely confused with.

Fruit that plays a similar part

Cultivars sharing a classification under the same system and a comparable role in a blend. Not a similarity score — a stated relationship.

Styles it is characteristic of

Where it grows

What people ask next

Questions readers ask about the things this page mentions. Each one goes to the section that answers it rather than to a page written to receive the question.

Where to go next

Sources

What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.

Research Evidence standard for this record. What that means.