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History · 1657–1691

The cider literature of the 1650s to 1670s

What are the oldest books about cider making?

In short

The first substantial body of writing on cider in English appeared in a single generation: Beale’s Herefordshire Orchards, a Pattern for all England in 1657, the Pomona annexed to Evelyn’s Sylva in 1664, and Worlidge’s Vinetum Britannicum in 1676. Between them they cover orchard planting, cultivar choice, milling and pressing, fermentation, vessels and bottling. They are also less independent of one another than three names and three dates imply — Pomona is a Royal Society compilation with six recorded contributors, and Beale is one of them.

They are the foundation of almost everything later written about early English cider, and they need to be read as improvement literature: they were arguing a case about land, trade and national self-sufficiency, and their enthusiasm is part of that case.

Three books and what is in them

Beale’s book of 1657 is the shortest and the most rhetorical. It is a county advocacy: Herefordshire’s orchards are held up as a pattern, the Redstreak is presented as the fruit that proves the point, and the reader is urged to plant. Its value now is as testimony to what an informed observer in the cider counties thought worth saying about them.

Evelyn’s Pomona of 1664 was published as an appendix to Sylva, his treatise on forest trees, which appeared under the authority of the Royal Society. It gathers contributions rather than presenting one voice, and it carries the subject from the western counties to a national and institutional readership.

Worlidge’s Vinetum Britannicum of 1676 is the technical one. It is the fullest early English account of how cider was actually made: the mills and presses, including his own proposed mill; the handling of pomace; casks and cellars; and the use of glass bottles and cork. A later edition extended it further. For questions of method rather than of advocacy, this is the period source that repays reading.

The three principal English cider books of the period
WorkAuthor and dateChiefly concerned withHow to read it
Herefordshire Orchards, a Pattern for all EnglandJohn Beale, 1657Orchard planting as county policy; the RedstreakAdvocacy addressed to landowners; evidence of reputation rather than of method
PomonaJohn Evelyn, 1664, appended to SylvaCultivars, orchard practice, the case for ciderA compilation under Royal Society authority; carries the subject to a national readership
Vinetum BritannicumJohn Worlidge, 1676Mills, presses, vessels, fermentation, bottlingThe fullest technical account of the century; describes practice in detail

Why they were written

All three belong to the improvement literature that flourished in England from the 1650s: books that proposed to raise the yield and value of land by better practice, usually addressed to men with land to invest in. Cider was a natural subject for the genre because it converted a crop that grew on ground already in use into a product with a cash value.

The political economy sits close to the surface. Cider is repeatedly set against imported wine, and planting orchards is presented as keeping money in the country. In a period of intermittent hostility with France and of heavy duties on wine, that was an argument with force behind it.

The books are also part of a network. Beale corresponded with the circle around Samuel Hartlib and later with the Royal Society; Evelyn drew on contributions from several hands; Worlidge wrote within the same tradition of practical improvement. Treating them as three independent witnesses to the state of cider making would overstate their independence.

What they are good evidence for, and what they are not

They are strong evidence for vocabulary, for equipment, and for what informed practitioners believed. When Worlidge describes how a cheese was built or how a cask was managed, that is a description of practice by someone who knew it. When the same books name cultivars, they preserve a nomenclature that is otherwise largely lost.

They are weak evidence for quantities, for how widely any practice was followed, and for anything about the ordinary labourer’s cider. Improvement writers describe best practice as they wish it were, and their subject is the estate rather than the cottage. Nothing in them should be read as a survey.

They are also not evidence of origins. A technique described in 1676 was not invented in 1676, and the temptation to date a practice to its first appearance in print is one of the commonest errors in cider history.

First mention is not first useThese books are the earliest detailed English descriptions of several cider techniques. That makes them the earliest surviving description, not the earliest practice. CiderHQ dates a technique to its first documentation and says so, rather than treating documentation as invention.

Their long afterlife

Because so little else survives in print from before 1650, these three works have carried a great deal of weight in later writing. Nineteenth-century antiquarians quoted them, twentieth-century cider books quoted the antiquarians, and a good deal of what circulates today as general knowledge about early cider is a paraphrase at three or four removes.

That chain of transmission is worth knowing about, because it explains why certain claims — the pre-eminence of one apple, the antiquity of a particular practice — are repeated with a confidence the original texts do not support.

How this developed

Certainty is marked on each entry. Where the popular account runs ahead of the evidence, that is said rather than smoothed over.

  1. 1657

    Beale

    Herefordshire’s orchards proposed as a national model.

  2. 1664

    Evelyn

    Pomona published with Sylva under Royal Society authority.

  3. 1676

    Worlidge

    Vinetum Britannicum, the fullest technical treatment of the century.

  4. Eighteenth and nineteenth centuries· probable

    Quotation and paraphrase

    The three works become the standard citation for early English cider, often quoted at second and third hand.

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