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Region

Frankfurt

The city where Hessian apple wine acquired its public institutions: the tavern quarter, the fixed vessels and measures, and a drinking culture that is urban rather than agricultural.

Known locally as Frankfurt am Main.

Country
Germany
Parent region
Hessen
Classification in use
No named scheme recorded
Protected designations
1 applying here

Climate and land

The first thing to know about a cider region, because it sets what the fruit can be. Ripening date, the acid that survives to the press and the sugar that reaches the vat are all decided here, and they are what makes one tradition's answers wrong for another's fruit.

Frankfurt sits in the Main valley at the heart of the Rhine-Main basin, one of the mildest and driest climates in Germany, sheltered by the Taunus to the north-west and warmed by its low elevation and by the heat retained in a large built-up area. The growing season is long and the summers warm and sunny, so fruit in the surrounding meadow orchards ripens fully and reliably. The city itself grows almost none of it: the orchards that supply Frankfurt taverns are on the slopes and in the villages around the basin, particularly to the north and east, where land was too poor or too broken for intensive arable. Frost in the low ground during blossom is the principal agricultural risk, and dry summers can stress trees on the thinner upland soils. Frankfurt’s role in the system is consumption and pressing, not growing.

The orchards

How the fruit is actually grown here — tree form, planting, what else the ground is used for, and who owns it.

The words used here

Each of these names something the tradition does. They are given in the local language because that is the form a reader will meet them in — on a label, on a cider-house door, or in a conversation about how the cider is poured.

Local terms and what they mean. A translation is given where one is honest; where the practice has no English equivalent, the entry describes the practice instead of inventing a word for it.
TermLanguageWhat it means
ApfelweinlokalGermanAn apple wine tavern: a premises serving apple wine by the jug with a fixed regional menu, generally at shared tables.
SachsenhausenGermanThe Frankfurt district on the south bank of the Main where the apple wine taverns concentrated, and the place the drink’s public identity was formed.
Handkäs mit MusikGermanA small sour-milk cheese dressed with chopped onion, oil and vinegar. The standard accompaniment; the Musik is the onion dressing.
SchoppenGermanThe three-hundred-millilitre measure in which apple wine is counted and sold.
sauer gespritztGermanApple wine cut with sparkling mineral water, a standard order rather than an improvisation.

History

How cider making here came to take the shape it has.

Culture

What the drink is for here, and the occasions and rooms it belongs to. This is not decoration around the cider — in several of these places it is the part that decides how the cider is made.

About Frankfurt

Frankfurt is the reason Hessian apple wine has a public face. The drink is made in the countryside and drunk everywhere in the region, but its vessels, its measures, its food and its tavern form were codified in a city district, and that urban codification is what gives the tradition its unusual precision. There is a right jug, a right glass, a right measure and a right dish, and none of it is written into law.

It is worth being clear about the geography. Frankfurt grows very little of the fruit it drinks. The meadow orchards that supply it are in the villages and on the slopes around the basin, and the city’s function is to press, ferment and consume. When apple wine is described as a Frankfurt drink, that is a statement about where it is drunk and how it is served, not about where the apples grow.

The tavern institution deserves description on its own terms. Long shared tables, jug service, a limited menu built around sour cheese and green sauce, and the ordinary acceptance of diluting the drink with water or lemonade are all part of one arrangement. It is a form of urban public sociability that happens to be organised around a fermented drink, and it works quite differently from a British pub or a Basque cider house.

The tradition contracted through the later twentieth century and has since been promoted as part of the city’s identity, including a heritage tram route named for the drink. That promotion is modern; the institution underneath it is not, and the useful thing for a reader is to be able to tell the two apart.

The fruit grown here

Cultivars recorded as grown in this region, historically or currently. Each card says what the fruit is.

What is made here

Styles this region is where they come from, or where they are characteristically made.

Methods traditional here

Processes that belong to this region's practice rather than being applied to it from outside.

Protected designations that apply here

What a name is legally reserved for in this area. A designation protects a name; it is not a quality mark.

What people ask next

Questions readers ask about the things this page mentions. Each one goes to the section that answers it rather than to a page written to receive the question.

Where to go next

Sources

What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.