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Comparison

Brett as character vs Brett as fault

Is Brett in cider a fault?

In short

Brettanomyces, or Dekkera, converts hydroxycinnamic acids in the cider into volatile phenols — principally 4-ethylphenol and 4-ethylguaiacol. At low concentration these read as spice, leather, smoke and farmyard, and they are part of the character of a good deal of traditional cask cider and of many barrel-aged ciders.

At higher concentration the same compounds read as sticking plaster, medicinal and horse-like, and they mask the fruit entirely. The individual threshold varies a great deal between tasters, which is why one drinker’s complexity is another’s defect on the same glass.

The reason producers treat it seriously is not the aroma but the persistence. Brettanomyces tolerates alcohol and sulphite well, ferments sugars that Saccharomyces leaves behind, and survives in wooden vessels that cannot be fully sterilised. A cider showing Brett in the bottle is usually still changing, so the level found today is not the level found in a year.

The two things being compared

Each side described in its own terms first, so the table below has something to hang on.

Where they differ

Dimension by dimension. Where a row needs a qualification, it carries one rather than being simplified until it fits.

Brett as character and Brett as fault compared. Neither column is the baseline the other is measured against.
DimensionBrett as characterBrett as fault
Compounds4-ethylphenol and 4-ethylguaiacol at low concentration.The same compounds well above threshold.
DescriptorsSpice, leather, smoke, farmyard.Sticking plaster, medicinal, horse, mousy in some cases.
Relationship to the fruitSits alongside it.Masks it.
StabilityA stable low level is a character; an unstable one is a fault in waiting, whatever it tastes like today.Only if the organism is no longer active.Actively increasing, which is the defining problem.
Taster variationSensitivity to 4-ethylphenol varies widely between individuals, so disagreement is genuine rather than a matter of expertise.Perceived as complexity by some.Perceived as a defect by others at the same level.
Where it comes fromWooden vessels and cellar flora that cannot be sterilised out.The same source; the difference is population and time.
ControlVessel management, sulphite and temperature keep it in check.Sterile filtration or pasteurisation are the reliable options once it is established.

Notes under a dimension name qualify the whole row, not one column.

When Brett as character is the relevant one

The circumstances in which this is the thing being described, rather than a reason to prefer it.

When Brett as fault is the relevant one

The circumstances in which this is the thing being described, rather than a reason to prefer it.

A misconception worth clearing up

This comparison exists partly because of the claim below, which is repeated often enough that most readers arrive holding it.

Commonly said

Brett is either a fault or a feature, and cider people simply disagree about which.

What is actually the case: Both are true of different levels of the same organism, and the more useful question is whether it is still active. A stable trace is a character; an active population in a sealed bottle will keep producing phenols until the substrate runs out, and where it ends up is not under anyone’s control.

Related comparisons

Distinctions that turn on the same thing, or that this one is routinely confused with.

What people ask next

Questions readers ask about the things this page mentions. Each one goes to the section that answers it rather than to a page written to receive the question.

Where to go next

Sources

What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.