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Fault

Brettanomyces character

Farmyard, horse-blanket, smoky and sticking-plaster aromas from Brettanomyces yeast converting hydroxycinnamic acids into volatile phenols.

Also called brett, farmyard character, phenolic taint.

Severity
Quality — the drink is worse for it
Where it starts
Maturation, Fermentation, Packaging, Stabilisation
Can it be fixed?
Partly — it can be reduced, not removed
When you notice it
Maturation, Storage
Signs
6 recorded

What it is

Brettanomyces character is the group of aromas produced by Dekkera bruxellensis and its relatives, yeasts that survive where Saccharomyces has finished, feed on sugars and acids that other organisms leave behind, and convert phenolic acids in the cider into volatile phenols. The result runs from a faint smoky, leathery lift at low concentration to farmyard, horse blanket, wet animal and sticking plaster at high. Whether it is a fault is genuinely contested, and depends on the style and on the level.

What you notice

Grouped by sense, because that is how the fault presents itself rather than how it works.

On the nose

  • A farmyard or stable-floor smell — warm animal rather than manure
  • A sticking-plaster or antiseptic noteThis is 4-ethylphenol at higher concentration, and it is the point at which most tasters stop calling it complexity.
  • Smoke, leather or clove sitting over the fruit

On the palate

  • A dry, slightly metallic finish with the fruit thinned out

How the batch behaves

  • A cider that develops the character progressively in bottle over a year or more

To look at

  • A slow, fine haze and a light gas prickle in a cider that was thought to be stableThe same organism ferments residual sugar slowly, which is why brett and unexpected carbonation often appear together.

The words for it: Farmyard, Sticking plaster, Horse blanket, Medicinal, Smoky, Leather, Bacon. Each links to what produces it.

When it appears. Slowly, over months, and it continues in the bottle. A cider that carried a trace at bottling can be dominated by it a year later, because the organism is still present and still working.

What is known about detecting it

Individual sensitivity to 4-ethylphenol varies substantially, so a split panel on a Brett-affected cider is an expected result rather than evidence of a badly run tasting. That variation is a large part of why the fault-or-feature argument is so persistent.

Various journals, Washington State University Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center

What it is mistaken for, and how to tell

One observation per rival, chosen because it separates them rather than because it describes either. Several of these are not faults at all — a style feature, a normal outcome, or the fruit behaving as it does.

Where this is a style feature rather than a fault

This is the clearest threshold case on the site. Low concentrations add complexity and are part of what a reader recognises in a traditional West Country or Norman cider; high concentrations flatten everything else. The record is written as a threshold question rather than a presence question, and the comparison page sets the two readings side by side.

What is actually happening

The chemistry or microbiology behind it. Understanding the mechanism is what makes the prevention make sense rather than being a list of rules.

Apple juice carries hydroxycinnamic acids, chiefly p-coumaroylquinic acid and chlorogenic acid. Dekkera bruxellensis possesses two enzymes in sequence: a cinnamate decarboxylase that converts the free acid to a vinyl phenol, and a vinylphenol reductase that converts the vinyl phenol to the corresponding ethyl phenol. The pathway is the reason the yeast produces aromas that Saccharomyces does not.

The two principal products are 4-ethylphenol, from p-coumaric acid, and 4-ethylguaiacol, from ferulic acid. 4-Ethylphenol carries the barnyard, horse and plaster character; 4-ethylguaiacol is smokier and more clove-like. Their ratio differs between strains and between drinks, and the intermediate 4-vinylguaiacol contributes a separate clove note in its own right.

What makes the organism persistent is its metabolic range. It ferments sugars that Saccharomyces leaves, including some that survive in a nominally dry cider, tolerates ethanol and low pH, tolerates sulphur dioxide better than most yeasts, and can grow extremely slowly over months. A population too small to see can be large enough to change a cider over a year in bottle.

It also colonises equipment. Wood is the classic refuge, because the yeast penetrates the grain beyond the reach of surface cleaning, but hoses, valves, gaskets and filler heads all harbour it. A cellar that has brett tends to keep having it.

How it happens

Causes, with the stage each originates at and how often it is the explanation.
CauseStageHow often
Wooden vessels carrying an established population from previous fillsMaturationcommon
Residual fermentable sugar in a cider believed to be dryMaturationcommon
Spontaneous fermentation of unsulphited juice, which admits whatever the orchard and cellar carryFermentationcommon
Long, warm maturation with little or no free sulphur dioxideMaturationcommon
Cross-contamination through hoses, pumps and bottling equipmentPackagingoccasional
Cider at a pH high enough that any sulphite present is largely ineffectiveStabilisationoccasional

Can it be put right?

Most cider faults cannot be reversed. Where that is the answer it is given plainly — an honest 'this batch is what it is' is more useful than a procedure that will not work.

Corrective options and how well each actually works.
OptionEffectivenessWhat it involves
Stop the population and prevent further developmentPartialSterile filtration or pasteurisation before packaging halts progression, so the cider stays as it is rather than getting worse in bottle. Neither undoes what has happened, and both require the appropriate equipment.
Blend into a larger clean volumePartialWorks where the level is moderate, because the character is threshold-dependent. It also moves live organisms into the clean batch unless the blend is subsequently stabilised.
Accept the character as part of the cider’s identityPartialA legitimate answer at low levels, and one many traditional ciders have effectively taken. It is not available once the sticking-plaster note has arrived.
Recover a contaminated wooden vessel by cleaningUnlikely to workSurface treatment does not reach the depth the yeast occupies. Steaming and shaving help commercially; at home the realistic options are to keep the barrel for cider where the character is acceptable, or to stop using it.
Remove volatile phenols from cider once they are formedNot possibleThe compounds are stable and there is no domestic route to removing them. Fining with certain adsorbents lowers them slightly at considerable cost to everything else.
On dosages

CiderHQ gives no additive dosage figures. An addition is a food-safety decision that depends on legal limits, on the juice in front of you and on what you are protecting against, and the right figure comes from your supplier’s or regulator’s own guidance rather than from a general reference.

Preventing it

More on this

Brettanomyces is the fault entry that most needs its contested status stated plainly. In a Belgian lambic the organism is the point. In several traditional English and French ciders a low level of the same character is part of what people recognise and value. In a modern fresh-fruited cider it is a defect that the maker would be embarrassed by. The chemistry is identical in all three cases.

Where a line can be drawn with some confidence is at 4-ethylphenol, and specifically at the point where the aroma stops reading as leather or smoke and starts reading as sticking plaster or antiseptic. Very few tasters defend a cider past that point, and it is a useful practical marker for a maker deciding whether a batch has a character or a problem.

The behaviour that causes the most trouble is slowness. A population that is invisible at bottling can work through the residual sugar of a nominally dry cider over a year, producing volatile phenols and carbon dioxide as it goes. A cider that changes markedly in bottle, gains a faint prickle and throws a fine haze is describing an active organism, and the sensible response is to check whether the bottles are gaining pressure.

Almost everything about controlling it is about equipment rather than recipe. The yeast lives in the cellar, not in the fruit, and a maker who has decided against brett character has to make that decision about their wood, their hoses and their filler as much as about their sulphiting.

The compounds involved

The organisms involved

Where in the process it arises

Faults it is confused with

These present similarly. What separates them is set out on each page.

Where this comes up in a guide

The link lands on the step where the fault arises rather than at the top of the pathway, because that is where the decision that causes it is taken.

What people ask next

Questions readers ask about the things this page mentions. Each one goes to the section that answers it rather than to a page written to receive the question.

Where to go next

Sources

What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.