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History · Eighteenth century to present

The history of classifying cider fruit

Who decided cider apples are bittersweet or bittersharp, and does everyone use the same system?

In short

The familiar sweet, sharp, bittersweet and bittersharp classes come from the Long Ashton research programme in England, which sorted fruit by measured acid and tannin in order to guide blending. France, Spain and the perry pear literature each developed different schemes for different purposes.

No scheme is universal, and none should be used without naming it. A cultivar can classify differently under two systems, and the same cultivar grown in a different climate can move class within one system.

Before measurement: the pomonas

The earliest attempts to organise cider fruit were descriptive. Seventeenth-century writers grouped apples by reputation and by the cider they were said to make; eighteenth- and nineteenth-century pomonas described fruit by appearance, season, tree habit and use, illustrated it, and recorded the local names it went by.

This work was indispensable and is still consulted, because it preserves nomenclature and describes trees that have since disappeared. But it could not compare fruit across regions. A description of a cider as strong or rough tells a reader nothing that can be set against another writer’s description of another fruit.

The nineteenth century also inherited a naming problem that description alone could not solve. The same cultivar carried different names in adjacent valleys, and different cultivars carried the same name, which is why cultivar identity and cultivar classification became entangled and to some extent still are.

Long Ashton: two axes and a purpose

The scheme that dominates English-language cider writing came out of the National Fruit and Cider Institute at Long Ashton, which analysed juice from hundreds of cultivars grown at its Somerset site. It sorted fruit on two measured axes — titratable acid, reported as malic acid, and tannin — and divided each at a threshold to produce four classes: sweet, sharp, bittersweet and bittersharp.

The choice of two axes was not arbitrary. Acid and tannin are the two components a blender most needs to control, because acid governs both freshness and microbiological safety while tannin governs bitterness, astringency and the capacity to age. Sugar was measured too, but it varies so much with season and ripeness that it makes a poor basis for classification.

The scheme was built to answer a specific question: what should be blended with what to make a balanced West Country cider. It answers that question well. It does not tell a reader how a cider will taste, and it was never intended to.

Four schemes, four questions
SchemeSorts fruit byBuilt to answerKnown limits
Long Ashton (England)Measured acid and tannin, each above or below a thresholdWhat to blend with what for a balanced West Country ciderSays nothing about aroma or finished flavour; figures are of Somerset-grown fruit and move with climate
French familiesSweetness, bitterness and acidity, giving douce, douce-amère, amère and aciduléeAssembling a Normandy or Breton blend, and matching fruit to keevingBoundaries differ from the English thresholds, so cultivars do not map one-to-one
Asturian classificationAcid and bitterness categories within the designation’s permitted varietiesWhich fruit may be used, and in what proportion, for sidra naturalTied to a specific designation and its variety list rather than general description
Perry pear classificationAcid and tannin in pear juice, with vintage quality noted separatelyDescribing and grouping English perry pearsPears carry sorbitol and citric acid, so apple categories transfer badly

The continental schemes

French classification developed independently and around a partly different problem, because Normandy and Brittany practise keeving and need fruit whose nitrogen and pectin behaviour suits it. The families of douce, douce-amère, amère and acidulée fruit sort by sweetness, bitterness and acidity, and the class boundaries do not coincide with the English thresholds.

Spanish classification, and in particular the framework attached to Asturian sidra natural, works from a defined list of permitted varieties grouped by acid and bitterness. Its purpose is regulatory as much as descriptive: it governs what may go into a protected product, which is a different job from advising a blender.

Perry pears required their own treatment, and got it from the same Long Ashton tradition. Pear juice contains sorbitol, which is largely unfermentable, and a significant proportion of citric acid alongside malic, so the categories that work for apples do not transfer cleanly.

Competition frameworks and the modern position

A newer kind of classification sorts finished drinks rather than fruit. Competition style guidelines exist to give judges a consistent basis for assessment, and they group ciders by origin, sweetness, carbonation and production method. They are useful for what they are, and are sometimes mistaken for a taxonomy of cider itself.

The historical lesson holds across all of them. Each scheme encodes the question its authors had — blend this fruit, protect this product, judge this class — and each carries the climate and the cultivars it was built from. A classification is a tool, and using one outside its intended job produces confident answers that are wrong.

This is why CiderHQ never records a class without naming its system, and records a cultivar’s classification as an array of system-scoped statements rather than as a single property of the fruit.

How this developed

Certainty is marked on each entry. Where the popular account runs ahead of the evidence, that is said rather than smoothed over.

  1. Eighteenth and nineteenth centuries

    Descriptive pomonas

    Cider fruit is organised by description, illustration and reputation, preserving names but permitting no comparison between regions.

  2. From 1903

    Measurement at Long Ashton

    Systematic juice analysis of cider cultivars provides the acid and tannin figures on which the English classification is built.

  3. Twentieth century

    The four-class scheme in general use

    Sweet, sharp, bittersweet and bittersharp become the standard English vocabulary for cider fruit.

  4. 1963

    Perry pears described systematically

    The Long Ashton perry pear survey establishes the reference description and grouping of English perry pears.

  5. Twentieth century onwards

    French and Spanish frameworks

    Continental classifications develop around their own production methods and, in Spain, around protected designation requirements.

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