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Austria

Home of one of the world’s three great perry pear landscapes: in the Mostviertel, Most usually means a dry, tannic pear drink made from enormous standard trees standing over grazed pasture.

Österreich.

ISO country code
AT
Level
Sovereign state
Native name
Österreich
Regions recorded
3
Protected designations
None recorded
What storage does to a perry pearTotal phenols in fourteen Austrian Mostbirnen measured twice in the 2008 season — on the day the fruit was picked, and again on the day it was pressed after weeks in store.Total phenols, mg/LSolid: at harvest · Dashed: at pressingGrüne Pichelbirne4290110Knollbirne4050130Stieglbirne3680110Speckbirne, 47 days3460130Speckbirne, 18 days30501840Machländer2740280Kleine Landlbirne2680180Luxemburger2360190Dorschbirne21901000Grüne Winawitz180090Rosenhofbirne1620300Schweizer Wasserbirne66050Rote Pichelbirne460180Gelbmostler230170Wurm et al. 2011, Table 2. Folin–Ciocalteu afterC18 clean-up. Storage between harvest and pressingis deliberate Austrian practice, not neglect: thepaper says the tannin was “sufficiently broken down”.
Total phenols in fourteen Austrian Mostbirnen measured twice in the 2008 season — on the day the fruit was picked, and again on the day it was pressed after weeks in store.
Described in full
Shape
Fourteen rows, one per cultivar, ordered from the highest harvest figure down. Each row carries two bars on the same scale: a solid bar for total phenols at harvest and a dashed bar directly beneath it for the same fruit at pressing. Both are in milligrams per litre and both are labelled with their value.
The range at harvest
Grüne Pichelbirne 4 290 mg/L, Knollbirne 4 050, Stieglbirne 3 680, Speckbirne 3 460 and 3 050 in its two samples, Machländer 2 740, Kleine Landlbirne 2 680, Luxemburger 2 360, Dorschbirne 2 190, Grüne Winawitz 1 800, Rosenhofbirne 1 620, Schweizer Wasserbirne 660, Rote Pichelbirne 460, Gelbmostler 230.
The range at pressing
Grüne Pichelbirne 110, Knollbirne 130, Stieglbirne 110, Speckbirne 130 and 1 840, Machländer 280, Kleine Landlbirne 180, Luxemburger 190, Dorschbirne 1 000, Grüne Winawitz 90, Rosenhofbirne 300, Schweizer Wasserbirne 50, Rote Pichelbirne 180, Gelbmostler 170.
The size of the collapse
In the four most phenolic cultivars the loss is between 96 and 97 per cent. Grüne Pichelbirne goes from 4 290 to 110, Knollbirne from 4 050 to 130, Stieglbirne from 3 680 to 110. Only Dorschbirne and the short-stored Speckbirne keep a substantial fraction; Gelbmostler, which had little to lose, keeps most of what it had.
The control the trial supplies itself
Speckbirne appears twice because it was sampled twice. Held eighteen days it went from 3 050 to 1 840 mg/L; held forty-seven days it went from 3 460 to 130. The same cultivar in the same season, an order of magnitude apart on storage time alone.
What it is not
Not neglect and not spoilage. Storing perry pears before pressing is deliberate Austrian practice, the local analogue of English sweating, and the paper records the intended result: the tannin had been sufficiently broken down, so the musts needed very little fining. The cost is that a proportion of the fruit is over-ripe by then, which the authors also note.
Why it matters for reading any perry pear figure
A phenolic number for a perry pear is a number about a moment. Cited without its sampling point it can be wrong by a factor of thirty for the same fruit in the same year, which is larger than any difference between cultivars in this chart.
Method
Total phenols by Folin–Ciocalteu after solid-phase clean-up on C18, reported in milligrams per litre. Fruit from the Versuchsgut Haschhof at Klosterneuburg, Lower Austria, grown under organic rules on Quitte A interstem and Pyrodwarf rootstocks.

The tradition

What cider making here is, on its own terms — the fruit it uses, the shape of the drink, and the part it plays.

How cider is defined and taxed here

A legal definition is not a description of good practice. It sets the floor a drink must clear to be sold under the word, and the floor is in a different place in every country — which is why the same label term can mean two quite different things either side of a border.

Rules change

Definitions, minimum juice contents and duty bands are amended, and CiderHQ records the structure of a rule rather than reproducing figures it has not verified against the instrument itself. Anyone making a commercial decision should read the current legislation or the revenue authority’s own guidance. The sources at the foot of this page are where to start.

Cider and perry in Austria

Austria is one of only three places in the world where pears are grown deliberately and at landscape scale for fermentation — the others being the English and Welsh border counties and the Domfrontais in Normandy — and its version is the most visually striking. Enormous standard pear trees stand singly across open grazed pasture in the Mostviertel, forming a landscape rather than sitting inside one.

The climate sets Austrian perry apart from its western counterparts. This is continental country on the northern edge of the Alps: cold winters, hot summer days, cool nights, and a shorter but more intense season than Atlantic Europe. Fruit builds more sugar, and Most from it carries more alcohol and more weight than an English perry made from equivalent pears, without any difference of method.

The vocabulary is a genuine hazard for anyone reading across German-speaking Europe. Most here is the fermented drink; in parts of Germany the same word means the must before fermentation; in Switzerland it needs suure or süss attached to be unambiguous. Three neighbouring traditions use one word for three things.

The current sector is a reconstruction, and honestly described as one. The drink was in steep decline as an old-fashioned rural product until a quality and identity project from the 1990s — associations, an awarded producer title, a signed route through the orchards, wine-format bottles — made it legible again. Underneath the framing is the real constraint of every perry landscape: a standard pear planted now will not crop meaningfully for a generation, so the trees depend on people willing to plant for a harvest they may not press.

Regions

The cider-making areas recorded within this country. Where an area has sub-regions, they are named on its card.

Styles made here

Categories whose definition or characteristic practice belongs to this country.

What people ask next

Questions readers ask about the things this page mentions. Each one goes to the section that answers it rather than to a page written to receive the question.

Where to go next

Sources

What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.

Country and region records describe practice and tradition. How CiderHQ handles evidence.