Region
Mostviertel
The south-western quarter of Lower Austria, where standard perry pear trees stand over grazed pasture on a scale found almost nowhere else, and where Most means a dry pear drink rather than an apple one.
- Country
- Austria
- Parent region
- None — a top-level region
- Classification in use
- No named scheme recorded
- Protected designations
- None applying here
Described in full
- Shape
- Fourteen rows, one per cultivar, ordered from the highest harvest figure down. Each row carries two bars on the same scale: a solid bar for total phenols at harvest and a dashed bar directly beneath it for the same fruit at pressing. Both are in milligrams per litre and both are labelled with their value.
- The range at harvest
- Grüne Pichelbirne 4 290 mg/L, Knollbirne 4 050, Stieglbirne 3 680, Speckbirne 3 460 and 3 050 in its two samples, Machländer 2 740, Kleine Landlbirne 2 680, Luxemburger 2 360, Dorschbirne 2 190, Grüne Winawitz 1 800, Rosenhofbirne 1 620, Schweizer Wasserbirne 660, Rote Pichelbirne 460, Gelbmostler 230.
- The range at pressing
- Grüne Pichelbirne 110, Knollbirne 130, Stieglbirne 110, Speckbirne 130 and 1 840, Machländer 280, Kleine Landlbirne 180, Luxemburger 190, Dorschbirne 1 000, Grüne Winawitz 90, Rosenhofbirne 300, Schweizer Wasserbirne 50, Rote Pichelbirne 180, Gelbmostler 170.
- The size of the collapse
- In the four most phenolic cultivars the loss is between 96 and 97 per cent. Grüne Pichelbirne goes from 4 290 to 110, Knollbirne from 4 050 to 130, Stieglbirne from 3 680 to 110. Only Dorschbirne and the short-stored Speckbirne keep a substantial fraction; Gelbmostler, which had little to lose, keeps most of what it had.
- The control the trial supplies itself
- Speckbirne appears twice because it was sampled twice. Held eighteen days it went from 3 050 to 1 840 mg/L; held forty-seven days it went from 3 460 to 130. The same cultivar in the same season, an order of magnitude apart on storage time alone.
- What it is not
- Not neglect and not spoilage. Storing perry pears before pressing is deliberate Austrian practice, the local analogue of English sweating, and the paper records the intended result: the tannin had been sufficiently broken down, so the musts needed very little fining. The cost is that a proportion of the fruit is over-ripe by then, which the authors also note.
- Why it matters for reading any perry pear figure
- A phenolic number for a perry pear is a number about a moment. Cited without its sampling point it can be wrong by a factor of thirty for the same fruit in the same year, which is larger than any difference between cultivars in this chart.
- Method
- Total phenols by Folin–Ciocalteu after solid-phase clean-up on C18, reported in milligrams per litre. Fruit from the Versuchsgut Haschhof at Klosterneuburg, Lower Austria, grown under organic rules on Quitte A interstem and Pyrodwarf rootstocks.
Climate and land
The first thing to know about a cider region, because it sets what the fruit can be. Ripening date, the acid that survives to the press and the sugar that reaches the vat are all decided here, and they are what makes one tradition's answers wrong for another's fruit.
The Mostviertel lies on the northern edge of the Alps, rising from the Danube plain to the limestone foothills, and its climate is genuinely continental in a way that no Atlantic cider region is. Winters are cold with reliable frost and snow, summers are warm and can be hot, and rainfall increases sharply towards the mountains. That combination gives a shorter but more intense growing season than the oceanic cider regions: fruit accumulates sugar more readily than in Normandy or Asturias, and pear must from here can reach a higher potential alcohol. Spring frost is the governing risk, because pears blossom early and the valleys hold cold air, and orchards accordingly favour slopes. The deep winter dormancy suits pears well, and the large day-to-night temperature range through late summer helps the fruit build both sugar and the tannin the drink depends on.
Soils
Deep loams and loess over gravel on the lower ground, giving way to heavier and stonier soils on the limestone foothills. The lower soils are fertile and hold moisture, which is what allows an enormous standing pear tree to carry a crop through a hot continental summer.
The orchards
How the fruit is actually grown here — tree form, planting, what else the ground is used for, and who owns it.
- The signature form is the standard pear tree — Mostbirne — grown to full size on seedling stock over grazed or mown pasture, spaced widely enough to farm beneath.
- Individual trees reach great size and age, and the resulting landscape of scattered giants over open grassland is the region’s defining feature rather than an incidental one.
- Apples are grown alongside, but the pear is the region’s identity, and the pear population here is one of the largest concentrations of fermentation pears anywhere.
- The economics are the same as in every perry region: decades to crop, a century or more of life, no return that a modern planting model recognises. Replanting depends on landscape programmes and on producer associations.
- Orchard numbers fell heavily through the twentieth century, and the surviving trees are old; conservation of the landscape and conservation of the drink are the same project here.
The words used here
Each of these names something the tradition does. They are given in the local language because that is the form a reader will meet them in — on a label, on a cider-house door, or in a conversation about how the cider is poured.
| Term | Language | What it means |
|---|---|---|
| Most | German | In the Mostviertel, the fermented drink — most often from pears, or from pears and apples together. The same word means unfermented must in other German-speaking regions, so it must be read locally. |
| Mostbirne | German | A pear grown for pressing: hard, astringent, high in tannin, inedible raw and useless for the table. The equivalent of a perry pear in the English and French traditions. |
| Birnenmost | German | Pear Most specifically — the region’s characteristic drink, dry and tannic, and closer in kind to English perry than to apple cider. |
| Mostheuriger | German | A seasonal tavern at which a producer serves their own Most with cold food, on the model of the Austrian wine Heuriger. |
| Moststraße | German | The signed route through the orchard country linking producers, taverns and viewpoints — a modern framework built around a genuine landscape. |
| Mostbaron | German | A title used by an association of producers meeting agreed quality criteria. It is a marketing and standards institution created in the modern period, not a historic rank. |
History
How cider making here came to take the shape it has.
- Pear growing and Most making in the region are long established, and by the early modern period the pear tree over pasture was the standard agricultural arrangement of the area.
- The drink was a farm and household product, made in quantity and drunk daily, in the same manner as Swabian Most and West Country farm cider.
- The twentieth century saw both consumption and tree numbers fall sharply as the drink came to be regarded as an old-fashioned rural product.
- From the 1990s a deliberate quality and identity project reframed Most as a regional speciality: a signed route through the orchard country, producer associations, and a body of makers presenting the drink in wine-like bottles and formats.
- That repositioning is the reason the region is visible today, and it is honest to describe the current sector as a revived and reframed tradition rather than an unbroken commercial one.
Culture
What the drink is for here, and the occasions and rooms it belongs to. This is not decoration around the cider — in several of these places it is the part that decides how the cider is made.
- Most is drunk in a Mostheuriger — a seasonal tavern where a producer serves their own drink with cold food, on the same model as the wine Heuriger of eastern Austria.
- The drink is served from a jug into a glass or a small earthenware mug, and is expected to be dry, cloudy and firm rather than sweet.
- A producer association awards a title to makers meeting its standards, which is a modern quality structure rather than a traditional rank.
- The signed Moststraße through the orchard country connects producers and taverns and is the main way visitors encounter the drink.
- Blossom in the pear orchards is a regional event in its own right, and the landscape is promoted independently of the drink it produces.
About Mostviertel
The Mostviertel is one of the three places on earth where pears are grown deliberately, at landscape scale, for fermentation — the others being the English and Welsh border counties and the Domfrontais in Normandy. Its version is the most visually dramatic: enormous standard pear trees standing singly and in loose groups across open grazed pasture, on a scale that makes the orchard the landscape rather than a feature within it.
The climate distinguishes it sharply from the western European perry regions. This is continental country on the northern edge of the Alps, with cold winters, hot summer days and cool nights. Fruit builds more sugar than it does in Atlantic Normandy or the Severn Vale, and Most from here can carry more alcohol and more weight than an English perry made from equivalent fruit.
The vocabulary is a genuine trap. Most in this region means the fermented drink and usually a pear one; in Switzerland Süssmost means unfermented juice and Suure Most the fermented; in parts of Germany Most means the must before fermentation. Three neighbouring German-speaking traditions use one word for three different things, and no amount of context-free glossary work will fix that.
The modern sector is a deliberate reconstruction. The drink was in steep decline as a rural product until a quality and identity project from the 1990s onwards — producer associations, an awarded title, a signed route, bottled presentation in a wine format — repositioned it. What survives underneath that framing is the real thing: an ageing population of standard pear trees, and a dry, tannic, sharply structured drink that has very little in common with sweet commercial cider.
As in every perry landscape, the binding constraint is time. A standard pear planted now will not crop meaningfully for a generation, so the maintenance of this landscape depends on landscape policy, producer organisations and people prepared to plant trees whose fruit they may never press.
The fruit grown here
Cultivars recorded as grown in this region, historically or currently. Each card says what the fruit is.
Cider apple
Rheinischer Bohnapfel
The classic German *Mostapfel*: a very late, very acid, enormously productive Rhineland cultivar that carried more Apfelwein and Viez through the twentieth century than any other single fruit.
Perry pear
Dorschbirne
The most phenolic Austrian perry pear measured, the highest-yielding in the trial, and the one the ministry describes as giving a Most with an elderflower note.
Perry pear
Grüne Pichelbirne
The sharpest Austrian perry pear measured at Klosterneuburg, and one of the most phenolic — an Upper Austrian variety first recorded in 1822 whose must the trial found sharpest of eleven.
Perry pear
Speckbirne
The principal Austrian Most pear, named in Austrian wine law for a lower acid floor, and the variety the Klosterneuburg trial pressed twice to two entirely different results.
Cider apple
Steirischer Maschanzker
A small, long-keeping Styrian apple of great age, central to Austrian orchard tradition and used in *Most* as well as at the table.
Perry pear
Grüne Winawitz
The one Austrian perry pear measured as no more phenolic than a dessert pear, which makes it the exception that defines the category.
Cider apple
Ilzer Rosen
A Styrian apple named for the Ilz valley, aromatic and moderately acid, grown in Austrian meadow orchards for the table and for *Most*.
Perry pear
Kleine Landlbirne
An Upper Austrian pear documented before 1720, with the highest dissolved solids in the trial and a described flavour of vanilla, honey and banana.
Perry pear
Knollbirne
A Swiss pear in Austria since 1885, singled out by the standard Austrian pomology as especially tannin-rich, and one of four whose harvest phenolics collapse almost entirely in store.
Perry pear
Rote Pichelbirne
An Upper Austrian pear described in 1691, low in both acid and tannin, giving a must that does not keep — and consequently used for blending and for drying rather than alone.
Perry pear
Schweizer Wasserbirne
The mildest pear in the Austrian trial and the second named in Austrian wine law — a Swiss variety, in Austria only since about 1900, now suffering severe pear decline.
Perry pear
Stieglbirne
An Austrian Most pear of high harvest phenolics and moderate must, and one of the four the trial named as exceeding 3 000 milligrams per litre of total phenols at picking.
Perry pear
Gelbmostler
A northern Swiss pear introduced to Austria in 1885, giving abundant clear must that the pomology calls somewhat too harsh pressed alone.
Perry pear
Luxemburger Mostbirne
An Austrian Most pear the standard pomology calls notably tannin-rich, whose measured phenolics are middling and whose chlorogenic acid is nearly the lowest in the trial.
Perry pear
Machländer
The most malic-acid-rich fruit in the Austrian trial and the driest must in it, from a variety the trial found among the least productive.
Perry pear
Rosenhofbirne
An Austrian Most pear of moderate everything, and the second-highest citric acid in the trial.
What is made here
Styles this region is where they come from, or where they are characteristically made.
Dry cider
Cider fermented out or finished so that little fermentable sugar remains, leaving acid, tannin and alcohol to carry the palate.
Perry
The fermented drink of pears, a tradition parallel to cider rather than derived from it, in which unfermentable sorbitol leaves a sweetness the maker never chose.
Most
The farmhouse fermented fruit drink of Austria and southern Germany, made from apples, pears or both, and belonging to a meadow-orchard landscape as much as to a recipe.
Still perry
Perry without carbonation, in which the fruit’s sorbitol sweetness and its texture carry a drink that has no bubble to lean on.
Apple wine
A fermented apple drink made to wine strength, usually by raising the starting gravity, and presented and taxed as a wine rather than as a cider.
Birnenmost
Mostviertel Birnenmost
Austrian pear Most from the Mostviertel, made from the region’s tannic standard-tree perry pears, in which sorbitol leaves a soft sweetness no fermentation removes.
Methods traditional here
Processes that belong to this region's practice rather than being applied to it from outside.
Broyage
Milling
Reducing whole fruit to a pulp so that the press has cell walls it can drain, rather than intact apples it can only bruise.
Fermentation spontanée
Wild fermentation
Letting the microflora already present on the fruit and in the press house carry the ferment, in a succession rather than as a single organism.
Bottling
Transferring finished cider into glass, where the dominant variable is how much oxygen the liquid picks up in the few seconds it takes to fill and close each bottle.
Inoculated fermentation
Starting a ferment by pitching a chosen yeast culture so that one known strain, rather than the fruit’s resident population, does the work.
Orchard biodiversity management
Managing an orchard for the deadwood, veteran trees and old grassland that make traditional orchards a recognised priority habitat, and confronting what that costs in fruit.
Belt pressing
Continuous pressing in which enzyme-treated pomace is carried between two converging porous belts and progressively dewatered around a series of rollers.
Flowering and frost
Managing the short, vulnerable window when the flowers are open and a single cold night can remove the season, through cultivar choice, site, floor management and active protection.
Fruit storage before milling
Holding a gathered crop between harvest and the mill, and managing what respiration, water loss and spoilage do to it while it waits.
Replanting and orchard renewal
Replacing an orchard at the end of its life or filling its gaps as they appear, and dealing with the specific problem of planting apple where apple has already stood.
Standard orchard systems
Widely spaced, tall-trunked, long-lived fruit trees over grassland — a family of related but genuinely different systems running from the Three Counties through Normandy to the Austrian meadows.
Tank maturation
Resting cider in stainless steel or a lined vessel, where the point of the container is that it contributes nothing and admits almost no oxygen.
Grazing under trees
Running livestock in an orchard so the sward becomes a second crop, with the tree protection, stock timing and food-safety rules that arrangement requires.
Protected designations that apply here
No protected designation or national definition on CiderHQ reserves a name for this area. That is a fact about the register rather than about the cider: a great deal of excellent cider is made in places no designation covers, and a designation would say nothing about how good it is.
What people ask next
Questions readers ask about the things this page mentions. Each one goes to the section that answers it rather than to a page written to receive the question.
- How does cider ferment — Yeast consumes the sugar in apple juice and produces roughly equal masses of ethanol and carbon dioxide, along with the esters and higher alcohols that give cider much of its aroma. In a wild ferment several yeast species take turns before *Saccharomyces* finishes the job.
- What is perry — Perry is an alcoholic drink made by fermenting the juice of pears, traditionally of specific perry pear cultivars rather than eating pears. It is to pears what cider is to apples, and has its own history in the three counties of England and in Normandy.
- Can you make cider from shop bought apple juice — Yes, provided the juice contains no preservative — check for potassium sorbate or benzoate on the label. Pasteurised juice ferments perfectly well once yeast is added, because pasteurisation removes the organisms but not the sugar.
- How are apples milled for cider
- How is cider bottled
- How is cider matured
Where to go next
- Cider and perry in Austria — The national picture this region sits inside, including how cider is legally defined there.
- All cider regions — The other traditions, each described in its own terms.
- Protected designations — What the law reserves a name for, and what it does not promise.
Sources
What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.
European Cider and Fruit Wine Association (AICV)
AICV · specialist organisation · retrieved 2026-08-24
eAmbrosia — the EU geographical indications register
European Commission · designation authority · registered as competent for this subject
The single authoritative register of EU PDO, PGI and TSG names, carrying each product specification. Cider and perry designations across France, Spain and elsewhere resolve here.
Research on pear juice composition and sorbitol in perry
Various journals and institute reports · peer-reviewed literature · registered as competent for this subject
The evidence base for the single most important chemical difference between cider and perry: pears carry substantial sorbitol, which yeast does not ferment, so a fully fermented perry retains sweetness a fully fermented cider cannot.