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The difference between a fault and a style feature

Is that a fault or is it meant to taste like that?

In short

Usually it depends on the style and on how much of it there is. Volatile phenols, acetaldehyde, diacetyl, ethyl acetate and lactic character are all traditional signatures somewhere and faults elsewhere, and the molecule is identical in both cases.

Two things decide. The first is concentration relative to a perception threshold and to the point where the compound dominates. The second is what the style was meant to be: the same volatile acidity that is characteristic in sidra natural is a defect in a fresh sparkling cider.

A short list of characters are faults everywhere: hydrogen sulphide and mercaptans, mousiness, ropiness, geranium taint, cork taint, light-strike, and any character indicating that a container has failed.

The two questions to ask

The first question is whether the character dominates. Almost every fault compound contributes something at low concentration and takes over above it, and the interval between the two is often narrow. Ethyl acetate at low levels adds lift; above threshold it is nail varnish and nothing else can be smelt. A useful assessment therefore reports the level as well as the presence.

The second question is what the drink was intended to be. This is not a matter of being charitable to the producer; it is a matter of what the assessment is for. A cider whose category is defined by oxidative maturation cannot sensibly be marked down for oxidative character, and one whose category is defined by fresh fruit aroma cannot sensibly be excused it.

These two questions do most of the work. Where they disagree — a character that is appropriate to the style but present at a dominating level — the level wins, because a cider in which one compound dominates has lost the balance the style depends on.

Where the same compound sits differently

Compounds that are signature in one context and fault in another.
CharacterCompoundWhere it belongsWhere it is a fault
Leather, smoke, sticking plaster4-ethylphenol and 4-ethylguaiacol, from Brettanomyces or lactic bacteriaTraditional English farmhouse and some Spanish and French ciders, at trace to moderate levelsAny cider built on fresh fruit character, and any cider where it dominates
Sherry, bruised appleAcetaldehyde and phenolic oxidation productsOxidatively matured traditional styles; ice ciderA cider intended to be fresh; at high levels, everywhere
Butter, butterscotchDiacetyl, from malolactic fermentationTraditional ciders that have undergone malolactic conversionFresh, fruit-driven ciders, where it reads as artificial
Vinegar and solventAcetic acid and ethyl acetateSidra natural, within a band that the tradition and its designation acceptMost other categories, and sidra natural above that band
Farmyard, damp cellarMixed microbial originWild-fermented farmhouse ciderAny cider presented as clean and modern
Haze and sedimentYeast, fruit solids, colloidsUnfiltered cider, sidra natural, bottle-conditioned ciderA cider that was clear when packaged and is not now

The characters that are faults everywhere

Why this matters beyond assessment

The fault-or-feature question is where most of the bad faith in cider commentary lives. A character can be dismissed as a fault to disqualify a tradition, or excused as traditional to avoid confronting a poorly made drink, and both moves are made regularly.

The defence against both is to describe rather than to rule. Saying that a cider carries a marked phenolic character, that this is characteristic of its category, and that in this example it dominates the fruit is three separate statements, each of which can be examined. Saying that it is faulty, or that it is authentic, collapses all three into a verdict.

This site is built to keep them separate. Faults are recorded as compounds and mechanisms with signs and causes; styles are recorded with what defines them and what legitimately varies inside them; and where a character sits on both lists, both records say so.

Thresholds are not fixed numbersPerception thresholds for the same compound differ between individuals, and are shifted by the matrix — by sugar, alcohol, tannin and carbonation. A threshold quoted from the literature is a group figure under stated conditions, not a boundary that applies to a particular cider or a particular taster.

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