Equipment
Thermometers and temperature measurement
How should I measure fermentation temperature?
In short
Fermentation is exothermic, so cider in a vessel is warmer than the room around it, and how much warmer depends on the vessel size and the vigour of the ferment.
A room thermometer therefore reads the wrong thing. So does an adhesive strip on the outside of an insulated tank. The reading that matters comes from a probe in the liquid, or from a well that reaches into it.
For small batches an adhesive liquid-crystal strip on a thin-walled vessel is a reasonable compromise; for anything with real thermal mass it is not.
The instruments
- Spirit-filled glass thermometers: cheap, no batteries, breakable. Mercury thermometers should not be introduced anywhere near food production and are restricted in many jurisdictions.
- Digital probe thermometers: fast, readable, and easy to sanitise if the probe is stainless and sealed. The probe, not the display, is the part that must be food-safe.
- Adhesive liquid-crystal strips: stuck to a vessel wall and read by which band is lit. Coarse resolution, but honest on a thin plastic or glass vessel where the wall is close to the liquid temperature.
- Thermowells: a sealed tube welded into a tank wall or head that a probe drops into, so the probe reads the liquid without ever contacting it. This is the standard arrangement on a jacketed tank because the probe can be changed without opening the vessel.
- Data loggers and wireless sensors: record a curve rather than a point. A fermentation that peaked at night is invisible to anyone taking a reading each morning, and the peak is usually the part that mattered.
Why the number matters
Fermentation rate rises steeply with temperature, and so does the risk of the ferment running away and stalling. Yeast under thermal stress produces more of the compounds nobody wants: higher alcohols, acetic acid, and in some conditions hydrogen sulphide. It also loses the volatile esters that a cool ferment retains, partly because they are made in different proportions and partly because a fast ferment blows them out of the vessel with the carbon dioxide.
Cool fermentation is the standard route to an aromatic cider, and the reason is straightforward: more of the fruit’s own aroma survives, and the yeast’s ester production is favoured over its fusel production. Traditional West Country practice arrives at the same place from a different direction — pressing in late autumn and fermenting in a cold stone building through the winter gives a long, cool, slow ferment without anyone having to control anything.
At scale the arithmetic changes entirely. A large tank cannot lose the heat it generates and will climb well above ambient without cooling. This is not a refinement; it is the difference between a controlled ferment and a stuck one.
Reading discipline
A probe introduced into a vessel is a contamination route. It is sanitised before it goes in, and the sanitiser is one that will not taint the cider at the small carryover involved. The better arrangement, where the vessel allows it, is to take a sample through a tap and read that, or to fit a permanent well.
Readings are taken at the same depth and at the same time of day if they are to be compared, because a tall vessel is not at one temperature. The bottom of a fermenting tank can be several degrees different from the top, and which is warmer depends on whether the vessel is being cooled and where the jacket sits.
Instruments drift. A probe checked occasionally against an ice-water bath and against boiling water — with the local boiling point in mind — is a probe whose readings can be relied on; one that has never been checked is a source of confident numbers of unknown accuracy.
Also answered on this page
Questions this page covers, so you can tell at a glance whether it is the one you want.
- What temperature should cider ferment at?
- Where do I put the thermometer on a fermenter?
- Does a big batch get hotter?
Related
What people ask next
Questions readers ask about the things this page mentions. Each one goes to the section that answers it rather than to a page written to receive the question.
- How long does cider take to ferment — A warm ferment with cultured yeast can finish in one to two weeks; a cool wild ferment in a cellar may take three months or more. Slow is not the same as stuck — the test is whether gravity is still falling.
- What should i know about stainless steel fermentation tanks — A stainless tank is a welded vessel, usually cylindrical, in an austenitic stainless grade chosen for corrosion resistance in acidic, chloride-containing conditions. It contributes nothing to the cider and lets no oxygen in.
- What temperature should cider ferment at — Most cider is fermented cool, commonly between about 12 and 18 °C. Cooler ferments keep more fruit aroma and run slower; above the low twenties the cider tends towards hot, solvent-like higher alcohols.
- What vessel should i ferment cider in, and does the shape matter — The material question comes down to three properties: how much oxygen crosses the wall, whether the vessel adds or absorbs flavour, and whether the surface can genuinely be cleaned and sanitised.
- Why did my cider stop fermenting — The usual causes are a shortage of yeast-available nitrogen, a temperature that has dropped, too much sulphite at the start, or a yeast that has reached its alcohol limit. Check the gravity before assuming anything is wrong: many ciders simply finish.
- How do i get rid of the sulphur smell in my cider — Racking with a little splashing usually blows off free hydrogen sulphide while it is still fresh. Once it has reacted into mercaptans the smell becomes rubbery and no longer responds to aeration.
Sources
What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.
Cider and perry production technical training material
Peter Mitchell / Cider and Perry Academy · reference work · registered as competent for this subject
Searched again on 2026-08-25 and it remains the one printed source here that a bibliographic check cannot fix, because it is not a published work with an edition. It is course material issued to participants of a training programme, so there is no catalogue record to verify, no ISBN, and no lawful public copy. Its state stays `registered` for that reason rather than through inattention.
The New Cider Maker’s Handbook: A Comprehensive Guide for Craft Producers
Claude Jolicoeur, Chelsea Green Publishing, 2013. ISBN 9781603584739 · reference work · bibliographic record verified, not opened 2026-08-25
Bibliographic record verified on 2026-08-25 against the Open Library union catalogue: Chelsea Green Publishing, 2013, ISBN 9781603584739, one edition recorded. That establishes the citation points at a real book in a stated edition, which is what a citation needs and is all it establishes. No copy was opened and nothing is quoted from it. The book itself is in print and not digitised in any open collection; where CiderHQ needs a figure from this territory it uses an accessible research source instead and says so.
The Science of Cidermaking and associated technical writing
Andrew Lea · reference work · passage verified 2026-08-24
Written by a food chemist who worked at Long Ashton on apple phenolics. Unusual among specialist cider writing in that it is primary-research-adjacent: the author is describing work he did, and cites the literature. This is why it is registered at tier 1 for chemistry while a general cider book is not.
Where to go next
- Cider making equipment — The rest of the equipment material, grouped by what each piece is for.
- How cider is made — The methods this equipment exists to carry out.
- Troubleshooting — The faults that are traced back to equipment and to cleaning.