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Cider apple

Wickson Crab

A Californian dessert crab raised by Albert Etter, exceptional for carrying very high sugar and very high acid at the same time, and now one of the most sought-after cider cultivars in North America.

Also written Wickson, Wickson Crabapple.

Classification
Sharp — Long Ashton classification
Harvest
Mid (Late September to mid October)
Single varietal
Established as a single-varietal cider
Blend role
Acid lift, Sugar and body, Aroma, Vintage quality
Origin
Ettersburg, Humboldt County, California
Species
Malus domestica
Vigour
Moderate
Biennial bearing
Slightly biennial
Keeping
Moderate

How it is classified

Long Ashton classification

Sharp

High acid, low tannin. Includes both purpose-grown sharps and many culinary apples.

Basis: Above about 0.45% w/v acid and below about 0.2% w/v tannin.

Assessed in Fruit grown in New York State trial plantings.

The sharp label captures the acid and misses everything else. Wickson combines that acid with sugar at a level no English sharp approaches, and the scheme has no way to express the combination.

Every classification on CiderHQ names its system. Why there is more than one.

What it contributes to a blend

A direction, not a measurement. These bands are the level of resolution the evidence supports, and they say which way adding this fruit pushes a blend rather than what the finished cider will be.

Contribution to a blend, scored 1–5 as a band. The filled segment is the typical value; the paler segments are the range.
AxisTypicalRange
AcidVery high
TanninLight
SugarVery high
BitternessSlight
AstringencySlight
AromaPronounced
BodyFull
Based on: published analysis

Cornell Brix and acid figures from New York fruit, plus consistent maker description of an intensely flavoured juice with modest phenolic content.

Startlingly intense for a fruit the size of a walnut — very sweet and very sharp at once, with a rich aromatic depth that is unusual in an American cultivar.

Aroma

Descriptors associated with this fruit. Each names a character with a known cause, and association is not a promise — what reaches the glass depends on the ferment as much as on the apple.

Put Wickson Crab into a blend

Measured analysis

Each figure is shown with where and when it was taken. They are not averaged: the same cultivar grown in another climate genuinely gives different numbers, and collapsing them into one would be the most misleading thing this page could do.

Measured on the fruit

Measured on the fruit itself, before anything was done to it. These figures hold whatever was later made from the juice.

Reported analyses of Wickson Crab, by property and source — measured on the fruit
PropertyReadingWhereWhenSource
Fruit diameter47 mm (44–51)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Fruit weight53 g (41–65)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit

Measured on the juice

Measured on juice as pressed, before fermentation. This is where most cider analysis lives and what the classification schemes are defined on.

Reported analyses of Wickson Crab, by property and source — measured on the juice
PropertyReadingWhereWhenSource
Brix2 readings, spanning 12.8–21.5 °Bx18.0–25.0 °BxGeneva, New York State2010sModern analysisCornell University, School of Integrative Plant Science
12.8 °Bx (9.9–15.7)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Fructose55.8 g/L (47.6–64.0)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Glucose18.0 g/L (10.4–25.6)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
pH3.52 pH (3.42–3.62)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Sorbitol14.5 g/L (12.2–16.8)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Sucrose54.6 g/L (50.4–58.8)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Titratable acidity7.6 g/L (5.7–9.5)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit
Total acid0.900–1.400 % w/vGeneva, New York State2010sModern analysisCornell University, School of Integrative Plant Science
Total phenolics450.0 mg/L (310.0–590.0)USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, USA2017Modern analysisCornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit

One property here has been measured more than once. The readings are shown as they were taken and are deliberately not averaged — climate, season, ripeness at picking, the age of the tree and the analytical method all move these numbers, and a single figure would hide every one of them. Where a spread is given below a property, it is the distance between separate studies, not the variation within any one of them.

How these were measured
  • Mean of the fruit sampled per accession; where a bracket is shown it is one standard deviation either side of the mean, not the observed range. Published to two decimal places and shown at the precision CiderHQ displays for the unit.
  • Mean of the fruit sampled per accession; where a bracket is shown it is one standard deviation either side of the mean, not the observed range.
  • Refractometer on pressed juice. Mean of replicates; a bracket, where shown, is one standard deviation either side of the mean.
  • Titration to pH 8.2 with sodium hydroxide, reported as malic acid equivalents. Mean of replicates; a bracket, where shown, is one standard deviation either side of the mean.
  • Meter on pressed juice before fermentation. Mean of replicates; a bracket, where shown, is one standard deviation either side of the mean.
  • Löwenthal permanganate titration, reported by the source as grams per litre of tannic acid equivalent and stored here as milligrams per litre by exact conversion so that it sits in one column with the Folin–Ciocalteu figures the site also holds. The two methods do not measure the same thing and are not interchangeable.
  • Enzymatic assay (Megazyme). Mean of replicates; a bracket, where shown, is one standard deviation either side of the mean.
  • D-sorbitol/xylitol assay kit (Megazyme), sorbitol dehydrogenase method. Mean of replicates; a bracket, where shown, is one standard deviation either side of the mean.
  • Among the highest refractometric sugar readings recorded for any apple in North American cider trials. Brix is calibrated on sucrose and reads slightly high in apple juice; it is recorded here because that is the unit the trials use.
  • Reported as malic acid. This is very high — higher than any English sharp — and it is the reason a small proportion of Wickson moves a whole blend.
  • One harvest at one site. Soluble solids move several degrees between seasons and with crop load.
  • A permanganate figure and a Folin–Ciocalteu figure for the same juice can differ by a factor of two. Compare this reading with other permanganate readings, not with a Folin one.

Compare within a study to see where these figures sat among the other cultivars the same work analysed — which is a more robust statement than the figures themselves, because absolute values move between laboratories and the ordering inside one study mostly survives.

Watched in the orchard

What named research programmes recorded about this fruit at their own sites. Bloom, harvest and cropping belong to a place and a run of seasons rather than to a cultivar, so they are reported site by site rather than merged.

USDA-PGRU Malus germplasm characterisation

USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit, Geneva, New York, in the Finger Lakes region of western New York State · 2017 · Cornell University / USDA-ARS Plant Genetic Resources Unit

Humid continental, with cold winters and warm summers moderated by the Finger Lakes — a sharper seasonal swing than any of the European cider regions whose fruit the collection holds, and warm enough in late summer to bring acid down faster than a maritime autumn does.

Held as
PI 613818, held as “Wickson”

One harvest season. Fruit assessed for weight, diameter, starch pattern index on the Cornell 1–8 chart and flesh firmness by penetrometer; juice pressed and measured for soluble solids by refractometer, titratable acidity by titration to pH 8.2 as malic acid, pH by meter, total phenolics by Löwenthal permanganate titration as tannic acid equivalent, and glucose, fructose, sucrose and sorbitol by enzymatic assay.

In the orchard

Harvest window
Mid
Flowering
Not recorded
Vigour
Moderate
Cropping
Slightly biennial
Keeping
Moderate

Ripens through late September and October. The fruit is tiny and hangs in clusters; hand-picking is slow and is the practical constraint on planting it.

Crops heavily, though the very small fruit size means tonnage per hectare is modest.

Disease and pest susceptibility

Recorded susceptibility. Pressure differs enormously by region and by season, so these are tendencies rather than predictions.
IssueSusceptibilityNote
Fire blightmoderate
Harvest labour costhighNot a disease, but the decisive practical objection: the fruit is too small to pick economically at commercial wage rates.

Juice and pressing

How it is used

On its own

Established as a single-varietal cider

Bottled single-varietal by a number of producers, and it works: the sugar gives alcohol and body, the acid gives structure, the aroma gives interest. Yield rather than quality is why more is not made.

About Wickson Crab

Albert Etter was breeding apples in remote northern California in the early twentieth century for reasons that had nothing to do with cider, and Wickson was his attempt at a crab that was actually worth eating. It is about the size of a large cherry, and it carries sugar at a level most apples never reach and acid at a level almost none reach, simultaneously. That combination is rare enough in the genus to be worth stating carefully: sugar and acid usually trade off against each other as fruit ripens, and Wickson does not make that trade.

For cider it solves the central North American blending problem. Most available fruit is low in acid, and adding acid usually means adding a thin, low-sugar culinary apple that dilutes the blend as it sharpens it. Wickson raises acid and raises gravity at the same time, which means a maker can correct a flabby blend without losing body. That is why it has become one of the most planted cider-specific cultivars in the modern American revival despite being commercially unviable as fruit.

The obstacle is picking. A tonne of Wickson is a very large number of very small apples, and at commercial wage rates the harvest cost is the entire economics of the cultivar. Growers who plant it do so knowing that, and it is a fair summary of the modern North American cider orchard that its most useful fruit is also among its least practical.

The Cornell figures above are worth setting against the Long Ashton scheme rather than inside it. Wickson is classified sharp because it is acidic and untannic, and that label puts it in the same box as Rhode Island Greening — a thin, sour, low-gravity culinary apple. The two behave nothing alike. It is the clearest illustration in this file of why CiderHQ records the numbers alongside the class and never in place of them.

Names, origin and identity

Cultivar naming is the hardest problem in cider fruit data. The same tree carries different names across ten miles, and two different trees have shared a name for two centuries.

Origin · documented

Raised by Albert Etter and named for the Californian pomologist Edward J. Wickson. Etter kept records, so this is one of the few cultivars in this file with a documented breeder, a documented cross and a documented introduction date.

Parentage · not established

Etter recorded a cross involving Newtown Pippin and a crab; the details as usually reported have not been independently confirmed.

Why it matters

Related cultivars

Recorded relationships, including the ones this fruit is routinely confused with.

Fruit that plays a similar part

Cultivars sharing a classification under the same system and a comparable role in a blend. Not a similarity score — a stated relationship.

Styles it is characteristic of

Where it grows

What people ask next

Questions readers ask about the things this page mentions. Each one goes to the section that answers it rather than to a page written to receive the question.

Where to go next

Sources

What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.

Research Evidence standard for this record. What that means.