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Why a perry pear’s name does not identify it

Why do perry pears have so many names, and can you trust them?

In short

Because they were named locally, by people who had no reason to coordinate with the next parish. A tree could be named for the farm it stood on, the field it stood in, the man who planted it, the shape or colour of the fruit, or what the perry did to you.

The result is not merely that one variety carries several names — that is common in fruit and easily handled. It is that one name carries several varieties. The National Perry Pear Collection’s register records nineteen names claimed by more than one variety it holds as distinct.

So a bare name is not an identification. It narrows the field, and for several of the commonest names it barely does that.

The names that belong to more than one tree

The National Perry Pear Collection at Hartpury is the closest thing British perry has to an identity authority. It holds at least two examples of most known perry pear varieties — 105 distinct varieties by 2015, against 25 at the National Fruit Collection at Brogdale — and it states that the DNA of most of them has been determined from trees in the collection and is used as an aid to identification. Its synonym lists are therefore evidence rather than report.

Reading the register across itself produces the table below. Each of these names appears in the entry for more than one variety, and the varieties are ones the Collection holds separately.

Names the National Perry Pear Collection records for more than one distinct variety.
NameVarieties claiming itWhich
Longland3Green Longdon, White Longdon, Winnal’s Longdon
Longdon2Green Longdon, Winnal’s Longdon
Huffcap2Rock, Yellow Huffcap
Yellow Huffcap2Hendre Huffcap, Yellow Huffcap
Painted Lady2Blakeney Red, Painted Lady
Pine2Pine, Pint
Red Pear2Blakeney Red, Red Pear
Sack2Red Pear, Sack
Barn2Barnet, Turner’s Barn
Sweet Huffcap2Hellen’s Early, Sweet Huffcap
Longstalk2Sack, Turner’s Barn
Black Huffcap2Rock, Yellow Huffcap

What that means for a tree in a hedge

A perry maker offered fruit as “Huffcap” has been told almost nothing. The Collection records that name for Rock and for Yellow Huffcap, and holds Hendre Huffcap, Littlecross Huffcap and Sweet Huffcap as three further distinct varieties. The Longdons are worse: Green, Red, White and Winnal’s are four varieties, and “Longland” appears in the synonym lists of three of them.

The consequences are practical rather than pedantic. Perry pears differ enormously in acid, in tannin and in when they are ready — a difference of weeks in a fruit that is only fit to press for a few days. A blend assembled from misidentified trees cannot be repeated, and a variety recorded as rare may be commoner than it looks, or the reverse.

It also makes the conservation arithmetic uncertain. Counting surviving trees of a named variety counts labels, not genotypes, and the two have been shown to differ.

How CiderHQ records thisWhere the Collection equates two fruits this site holds separately — Yellow Longdon with Yellow Huffcap, Startlecock with Holmer, Dymock Red with Thurston’s Red — both records stand and the equation is marked contested, with the Collection named as the body making it. Adopting the equation would assert an identity CiderHQ cannot verify; suppressing it would hide the best evidence anyone has.

Why the names are like this

Perry pears were propagated by people who grafted from a neighbour’s tree and called the result whatever the neighbour called it. Nothing in that chain requires a name to be stable over distance, and the fruit itself gives little help: perry pears are small, hard, often unremarkable to look at, and the differences that matter are in the juice.

Several names are descriptive and were therefore invented independently more than once. Huffcap describes what the perry does; Longland and Longdon are place-forms that recur across the three counties; Red Pear and Painted Lady describe colour. A descriptive name is exactly the kind that two parishes will coin separately for two different trees.

And some of the confusion is recent rather than ancient. Nurseries selling into a revival market have attached old names to whatever they had, and a variety with a good reputation attracts its name to fruit that is not it. This is why DNA work matters more here than in almost any other British fruit.

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