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Organism

Oenococcus oeni

The acid-tolerant lactic acid bacterium that carries out most deliberate malolactic fermentation, converting malic acid to lactic acid after the yeast has finished.

Also called Leuconostoc oeni.

Kind
Bacteria
Binomial
Oenococcus oeni
Role
Malolactic conversion

What it does

Conditions it works in

What the organism tolerates and what suppresses it. These are the levers a maker actually has: temperature, acidity, air, alcohol and sulphite.

Only the conditions a source states are listed. A missing row means no consulted source gave a figure, not that the condition is unimportant.
ConditionWhat is recorded
TemperatureGrows from roughly 15 °C to 25 °C, with malolactic conversion slowing markedly below about 12 °C — the mechanism behind the traditional practice of a cool winter and a spring malolactic.
pHNotably acid-tolerant for a lactic acid bacterium, active down to around pH 3.0 and increasingly rapid above pH 3.5.
OxygenAnaerobic to microaerophilic; it does not need air and is not inhibited by its absence.
Alcohol toleranceTolerates cider strength readily, generally to around 12–14% ABV.
Sulphite toleranceSensitive. Free sulphur dioxide inhibits it strongly, which is why sulphiting a cider before malolactic conversion is the standard way to prevent it.

What it produces

Compounds this organism makes. Which organism made a compound usually decides whether it reads as a feature or as a symptom.

Faults it causes

Faults this organism is implicated in. Several are faults only against a particular expectation — the same activity is a signature elsewhere.

Where in the process it appears

Measured figures

Growth limits, tolerances and population counts, shown with the context each was taken in rather than averaged into a constant.

Microbial population6.0 log CFU/mL

context not recorded · Reported as “above 10⁶ cells/ml”, the point at which it becomes the only detectable bacterial species · Campbell-Sills, El Khoury, Favier and others, Genome Biology and Evolution 7(6):1506–1518

A floor rather than a peak: the source states that the population exceeds this once the organism takes hold in wine or cider, not that it stops there. What the figure marks is the transition from an organism that is present to an organism that is running the process, and at that point nothing else bacterial is culturable alongside it.

Viable cells per millilitre, on the log scale. What separates an organism that is present from one that is running the ferment. Measured in log colony-forming units per millilitre.

Malic acid to lactic acidThe malolactic conversion and its three consequences for the palate.Malic acidtwo acid groupsOenococcus oeniLactic acidone acid groupcarbon dioxide leavesWhat changes on the palateAcidity fallsone group lostpH risesless protectedButter notefrom diacetylWanted in some styles, a fault in others
The malolactic conversion and its three consequences for the palate.
Described in full
The reaction
Malic acid, which carries two acid groups, is decarboxylated to lactic acid, which carries one, releasing carbon dioxide. Nothing is fermented in the ordinary sense: no sugar is consumed and no alcohol is made.
What performs it
Lactic acid bacteria, chiefly Oenococcus oeni and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum. They arrive on the fruit and in the vessel, and in traditional cidermaking they are rarely inoculated.
Acidity falls
Losing one of two acid groups roughly halves the acid contribution of every malic molecule converted. Titratable acidity drops and the cider tastes rounder.
pH rises
The same change raises pH, which matters because a higher pH is a less protected cider. Malolactic makes a drink softer and simultaneously more vulnerable to spoilage.
A buttery note may appear
Diacetyl is a by-product. In small amounts it reads as butter or butterscotch, which is traditional in some styles and a fault in a fresh, fruit-driven one.
Carbon dioxide is released
A slow bead in a maturing vessel is often malolactic rather than residual fermentation. In a sealed bottle, an unfinished malolactic is a source of unplanned pressure.
Not always wanted
A cider made for freshness is usually kept below the pH and temperature where the bacteria establish, or filtered and sulphited to prevent it. The same conversion is a goal in one cellar and a fault in another.

About Oenococcus oeni

Oenococcus oeni is the third act of the cider succession. The yeasts have gone; the sugar is gone; what remains is malic acid, and this organism can live on it. Formerly classified as Leuconostoc oeni and moved to its own genus in the 1990s, it is distinguished among lactic acid bacteria by tolerating conditions the others cannot — low pH, ethanol, and the nutrient-poor state of a finished ferment — which is exactly why it dominates malolactic conversion in wine and cider while its relatives cause faults instead.

The chemistry is deceptively small and its effects are large. One decarboxylation replaces malic acid with lactic acid: acid quantity falls, pH rises by a few tenths, and a cider that was hard and sharp becomes rounder. In high-acid seasons and high-acid regions this is the principal tool for softening a cider without adding anything to it. In a low-acid West Country blend already sitting near pH 3.8 it may be the last thing wanted, since the pH rise moves the cider towards a range where other spoilage is easier.

Two side reactions matter. Citric acid metabolism gives diacetyl, welcome as a whisper of butter and unwelcome as butterscotch, with the balance depending on how much citrate is present and whether yeast lees remain to reduce diacetyl to acetoin. And this species, like other lactic acid bacteria, can produce biogenic amines and — under some conditions — the tetrahydropyridines responsible for mousiness.

The practical decision is one of timing and control. Left to itself, malolactic conversion in a cool cellar tends to happen in spring as temperatures rise, which is late enough to be a hazard if the cider is already in bottle. A maker who wants it encourages it deliberately and confirms it is finished before packaging; a maker who does not want it prevents it with sulphite, with cold, or by removing the organism through filtration.

The strains in cider are not the strains in wine, and that is a genomic finding rather than an inference from where they were found. Across fifty sequenced genomes the species divides into two major groups, with most wine isolates in one and a champagne-adapted cluster inside it; cider isolates fall in the other group, and the single strain that sits basal to the entire species — outside both — was also isolated from cider. The reading the authors offer is that an ancestral organism adapted to low-ethanol environments such as overripe fruit was domesticated separately into the two drinks, and that the wine strains travelled further from the ancestor than the cider ones did. The practical version of that is short: a malolactic culture sold for wine is a wine organism, and the environment it is being asked to work in — six per cent alcohol rather than thirteen, and often a higher pH — is not the one it was selected in.

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Sources

What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.