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Fault

Lactic off-flavours

Sauerkraut, sour milk, silage or cheesy notes from lactic acid bacteria working on sugars and other substrates rather than on malic acid alone.

Also called sauerkraut character, lactic spoilage.

Severity
Quality — the drink is worse for it
Where it starts
Maturation, Blending
Can it be fixed?
Partly — it can be reduced, not removed
When you notice it
Fermentation, Maturation
Signs
6 recorded

What it is

Lactic acid bacteria are a normal and often welcome part of cidermaking: a controlled malolactic fermentation converts sharp malic acid to softer lactic acid and is deliberate in much traditional practice. Lactic off-flavours are what happens when the same family of organisms goes beyond that — fermenting residual sugars, glycerol, citric acid or tartrate, and producing a set of aromas that read as sauerkraut, sour milk, silage, cheese or a general sourness with no fruit behind it.

What you notice

Grouped by sense, because that is how the fault presents itself rather than how it works.

On the nose

  • A sauerkraut or pickled-cabbage smell
  • Sour milk, yoghurt or soft cheese notes
  • A silage or farmyard-slurry impression distinct from the animal character of Brettanomyces

On the palate

  • Acidity that has changed character — softer in shape but sourer in impression

To look at

  • A slow, fine haze and a gentle prickle appearing in a cider believed finished

How the batch behaves

  • The cider tasting flatter and less fruity than it did a few months earlier

The words for it: Cheesy, Soured milk, Yoghurt. Each links to what produces it.

When it appears. During or after a malolactic fermentation, which in traditional cider frequently happens without anyone having decided it should. A cider that has softened over winter has usually had one.

What is known about detecting it

The organisms responsible are the same ones that carry out the wanted conversion, so this fault cannot be prevented by excluding them without also giving up the malolactic. The control is which organisms and at what pH, not whether.

Campbell-Sills, El Khoury, Favier and others, Genome Biology and Evolution 7(6):1506–1518, Sánchez, Coton, Coton, Herrero, García and Díaz, Food Microbiology 32(1):32–37

What it is mistaken for, and how to tell

One observation per rival, chosen because it separates them rather than because it describes either. Several of these are not faults at all — a style feature, a normal outcome, or the fruit behaving as it does.

Where this is a style feature rather than a fault

Malolactic fermentation is deliberate in many traditional ciders and its milder products are part of the expected character. The line falls where the dairy notes stop being a background and start being the description.

What is actually happening

The chemistry or microbiology behind it. Understanding the mechanism is what makes the prevention make sense rather than being a list of rules.

Malolactic fermentation proper is a decarboxylation: the malolactic enzyme converts L-malic acid to L-lactic acid and carbon dioxide, with no energy yield in the classical sense and essentially no off-flavour. Oenococcus oeni is the organism generally wanted for it, and a clean conversion softens acidity and lowers titratable acid without much else changing.

Off-flavours arise when the bacteria have substrates other than malic acid. Heterofermentative species — Lactobacillus brevis, Lactobacillus collinoides, Leuconostoc mesenteroides — ferment residual glucose and fructose to lactic acid, acetic acid, ethanol and carbon dioxide. The acetic acid contributes to volatile acidity, and the mixture of products gives the sour, vegetal impression.

Citric acid metabolism produces diacetyl and acetoin, adding buttery notes; ethyl lactate from lactic acid and ethanol adds a milky, slightly waxy character; and amino acid decarboxylation produces biogenic amines, which are not strongly flavoured but are the reason unmanaged lactic activity is not simply a sensory question.

The whole family is restrained by low pH and by free sulphur dioxide, and favoured by warmth, residual sugar and time. Cider from low-acid bittersweet fruit sits at a pH where they are comfortable, which is why lactic activity in cider is both more common and less controllable than in most wine.

How it happens

Causes, with the stage each originates at and how often it is the explanation.
CauseStageHow often
Residual sugar left in a cider with an active lactic populationMaturationcommon
High pH from low-acid fruit, offering little natural restraintBlendingcommon
Spontaneous malolactic fermentation by whatever species the cellar holdsMaturationcommon
No free sulphur dioxide during warm maturationMaturationcommon
Extended lees contact providing amino acids and nutrients to the bacteriaMaturationoccasional
Wooden vessels or equipment carrying resident strainsMaturationoccasional

Can it be put right?

Most cider faults cannot be reversed. Where that is the answer it is given plainly — an honest 'this batch is what it is' is more useful than a procedure that will not work.

Corrective options and how well each actually works.
OptionEffectivenessWhat it involves
Stop the activity where it isPartialSulphiting once conversion is complete, or filtering, prevents further development. This preserves a lightly affected cider rather than repairing it.
Blend into a larger clean volumePartialReasonable for mild sauerkraut or milky character; ineffective once the cider is obviously sour and vegetal.
Wait for the character to integrate with ageUnlikely to workSometimes claimed. In practice a cider with established lactic off-flavours does not grow out of them, and leaving it exposed invites the rest of what these organisms do.
Remove the off-flavoursNot possibleThey are dissolved fermentation products and cannot be selectively taken out.
On dosages

CiderHQ gives no additive dosage figures. An addition is a food-safety decision that depends on legal limits, on the juice in front of you and on what you are protecting against, and the right figure comes from your supplier’s or regulator’s own guidance rather than from a general reference.

Preventing it

More on this

The awkwardness of this fault is that the organisms responsible are the same ones that make traditional cider taste the way it does. Malolactic fermentation is not an infection; in much of the West Country and in Normandy it is expected, and a cider that has not been through it can taste harsh by comparison. The fault is the uncontrolled version of a wanted process.

What distinguishes the two is substrate. Bacteria given only malic acid convert it and stop. Bacteria given sugar, citrate, glycerol and lees nutrients do a great deal more, and produce the sour, vegetal, buttery, milky spectrum that this entry covers. The practical control is therefore to finish the alcoholic fermentation properly before the bacteria get their turn.

The second control is pH, and it is the one that cider makes hardest. A blend built on bittersweet fruit sits at a pH where lactic acid bacteria are comfortable and where sulphur dioxide is much less effective than the same addition would be in a sharper cider. The traditional inclusion of sharp fruit in a blend is a microbiological decision as much as a sensory one.

Where cider is being made deliberately without added sulphite, unmanaged lactic activity is the most likely thing to go wrong, and the honest way to make that choice is with a cider whose pH is low enough to give it a chance.

The compounds involved

The organisms involved

Where in the process it arises

Faults it is confused with

These present similarly. What separates them is set out on each page.

Where this comes up in a guide

The link lands on the step where the fault arises rather than at the top of the pathway, because that is where the decision that causes it is taken.

What people ask next

Questions readers ask about the things this page mentions. Each one goes to the section that answers it rather than to a page written to receive the question.

Where to go next

Sources

What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.