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Sensory descriptor

Cheesy

A rancid, sweaty note from short-chain fatty acids, chiefly butyric and isovaleric, produced by bacteria.

Also called Sweaty, Rancid, Old cheese.

Aroma family
Dairy and lactic
Does it indicate a fault?
It depends on the style it is met in

What causes it

Butyric acid smells of rancid butter and vomit; isovaleric acid smells of stale cheese and sweat; both have very low thresholds. In cider they come from bacterial metabolism — Clostridium species producing butyric acid from lactate or from sugars under low-oxygen conditions, and a range of bacteria and yeasts producing isovaleric acid from leucine. Brettanomyces is a notable isovaleric acid producer, which is why cheesy notes so often accompany the phenolic family. The conditions that favour them are the same ones that favour every other bacterial fault: low sulphite, higher pH and long standing.

Intensity, not identity, decides this one

There is no level at which butyric acid is acceptable. Isovaleric acid at trace level is part of the farmyard composite in traditional cider; where it can be identified independently as cheese, it has gone beyond that.

The compounds responsible

Where the molecule is established. Some descriptors in this lexicon name a compound the compound register does not yet hold a record for; those are named in the cause above instead.

The organisms that make it

Where a specific organism is implicated rather than the fruit. Naming one answers a different question from naming a molecule: what is in the cellar, rather than what is in the glass.

What raises it

Processes that increase this character, or preserve it where it would otherwise be lost.

The fault it points at

Meeting this descriptor above a certain intensity is how the fault below is usually noticed first.

Fault

Lactic off-flavours

Sauerkraut, sour milk, silage or cheesy notes from lactic acid bacteria working on sugars and other substrates rather than on malic acid alone.

About Cheesy

Cheesy notes point at a pH problem more often than at anything else. Cider from low-acid bittersweet fruit can sit above pH 4, where the bacteria responsible are far more comfortable, and acid adjustment is the standard preventive measure.

The descriptor overlaps with horse blanket in the phenolic family, since isovaleric acid contributes to both, and the two should be recorded together where both are present.

Others in the dairy and lactic family

Butter, butterscotch, yoghurt, cream.

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Questions readers ask about the things this page mentions. Each one goes to the section that answers it rather than to a page written to receive the question.

Where to go next

Sources

What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.