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Maturation

Racking

Moving cider off the sediment it has thrown, which both cleans the liquid and — by taking yeast and nitrogen away with the deposit — slows what is left of the ferment.

Also called Drawing off, Soutirage, Trasiego.

Stage
Maturation
Traditional in
No single tradition — used wherever it suits
What it most changes
Body down, fermentation character down
Safety
None recorded

What it is

Racking is the transfer of cider from one vessel into another, leaving the settled deposit behind. The deposit is spent and dying yeast, fruit debris, precipitated pectin and protein, and whatever bacteria have come along; the clear liquid above it is drawn off by siphon, tap or pump without disturbing what has fallen. It is the most routine operation in a traditional cellar and also one of the most consequential, because a racking does not only clarify. It removes a large part of the working yeast population and much of the remaining nutrient, and so changes how the ferment behaves from that point on.

Why it is used

How it works

What it changes

The direction this step pushes the finished drink in, dimension by dimension. A direction, not a measurement: how far it moves depends on the juice, the temperature and how the step is carried out.

Effect on each sensory dimension. Hover or focus a dimension name for what that dimension means on CiderHQ.
DimensionDirectionWhy
SweetnessEither wayRemoving yeast and nitrogen with the deposit slows sugar consumption, so a ferment racked repeatedly may stop while sugar remains — while a single racking of a healthy, well-nourished ferment barely alters its course.
BodyLowersYeast solids and colloidal material contribute to the impression of weight in the mouth, and each racking takes some of that away with the lees.
Fermentation characterLowersSeparating the liquid from the cell mass halts the slow release of autolytic compounds that would otherwise accumulate and read as yeasty or bready.
Oxidative characterRaisesEach open transfer dissolves a little oxygen, which reacts with phenolics and with ethanol pathways to give a small acetaldehyde and browning contribution that accumulates over successive rackings.

The chemistry and the organisms

What is actually being changed, and by what. Each entry says what that compound or organism does in cider generally; this page is one place it does it.

Compounds involved

Organisms involved

What it is done with

What can go wrong

Faults that begin at this step, or that this step makes more likely. Each one is set out with its causes and whether it can be put right.

Styles it produces

Categories in which this step is characteristic or required. Some name it in their definition; for others it is simply how they have always been made.

More on racking

What makes racking worth a long entry is that it is two operations wearing one name. As clarification it is unremarkable — solids fall, liquid is drawn off, the cider is cleaner than it was. As fermentation management it is the principal lever a maker has who does not wish to add anything. Apple juice is often poor in assimilable nitrogen to begin with, and a large fraction of what nitrogen there is ends up inside yeast cells rather than in solution. Racking carries those cells out of the vessel. Do it once and the ferment slows a little; do it repeatedly, each time the cider has thrown a fresh deposit, and the yeast population is driven down faster than it can rebuild, until fermentation is measured in points of gravity per month. That is not an accident of tidiness. It is how a cider is brought to rest with sugar still in it.

The two deposits a maker deals with behave differently and should not be treated alike. Gross lees are what falls in the first days and weeks: coarse fruit debris, pectin and protein flocs, and the bulk of the yeast crop, forming a thick and quickly compacting layer. This is the material most likely to give trouble if it is left, because a deep bed of it goes anaerobic at the bottom and the cells within it autolyse under stress. Fine lees, the light powdery deposit that continues to settle from a cider already reasonably clear, are a slower and gentler matter, and a maker who wants texture from lees contact is talking about these rather than about the first sludge. The usual practice is to get off gross lees without undue delay and then to decide, deliberately, how long to sit on the fine deposit that follows.

The trade-off runs in both directions and neither end of it is safe. Left too long on a heavy deposit, a cider turns reductive: it smells first of struck match and boiled vegetable, then frankly of hydrogen sulphide, and if the sulphides are allowed to combine into mercaptans the problem stops being reversible by racking or aeration. Racked too hard and too early, the same cider is stripped of the yeast that would have finished the job and of much of the colloidal material that gave it weight, and the result is a ferment that stalls at a gravity nobody chose, in a liquid that tastes thin and has lost its buffer against spoilage while sugar is still available to the organisms that cause it. Every racking is also a small dose of oxygen. In a young, tannic, reductive cider that dose is often wanted; in a delicate, low-tannin cider approaching packaging it is a cost.

French practice makes the technique explicit. In a keeved cider the chapeau brun is formed and the bright juice drawn from beneath it, and thereafter the cider is racked again and again — soutirages successifs — precisely to keep it nitrogen-poor and slow, so that it can be bottled while still sweet and finish its carbonation in the bottle over months rather than weeks. That is a different intervention from keeving itself: keeving is the pectin-mediated defecation that strips nutrient out of the juice before fermentation properly begins, while successive racking is what maintains the starvation afterwards. Elsewhere the emphasis differs. West Country farmhouse practice traditionally racked from cask to cask when the cider had fallen quiet, as much to get it off the lees and into a full, sound vessel as to control sugar; Asturian sidra natural is generally racked to leave a dry, clean cider rather than a sweet one; and a modern producer working in stainless with a pitched yeast may rack once and let the rest be handled by filtration.

Related processes

Steps that sit alongside this one, replace it, or depend on it having been done.

What people ask next

Questions readers ask about the things this page mentions. Each one goes to the section that answers it rather than to a page written to receive the question.

Where to go next

Sources

What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.