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Compound

Yeast-assimilable nitrogen

The nitrogen a yeast can actually use, which apple juice is chronically short of — the shortage behind both stuck fermentations and rotten-egg aromas, and the shortage keeving deliberately makes worse.

Also called YAN, Assimilable nitrogen, FAN.

Class
Nitrogen compounds
Formula
Not a single molecule — see below
How often it matters
Present in every cider

What it does in cider

Measured figures

Shown as they were measured, with the context each was taken in. They are not averaged: a concentration recorded in one country's fruit in one decade is not a constant.

3 separate analyses of assimilable nitrogen. They are shown as they were measured, in their own contexts, and are not averaged — the same fruit grown somewhere else can genuinely give a different number.

Assimilable nitrogen30.0–150.0 mg/L

context not recorded · Assimilable nitrogen, excluding proline · Cornell University, School of Integrative Plant Science

The band cider apple juices commonly fall in, and the point of quoting it is the comparison: winemaking practice generally treats around 150 mg/L as the minimum for a clean, complete ferment, and a great many cider juices arrive below that before anything has been added. Orchard nitrogen status, cultivar, rootstock, crop load and season all move the figure, so it must be measured rather than assumed.

Assimilable nitrogen59.0 mg/L (9.0–249.0)

Virginia, United States, 2014–2015 · 108 samples · Enzymatic assay of free amino nitrogen plus ammonium ion, summed · Boudreau, Peck, O’Keefe and Stewart, Food Science & Nutrition 6(1):119–123

A twenty-sevenfold spread across a hundred and eight samples, which is the finding. Ninety-four per cent of them fell below 140 mg N/L, the concentration wine practice treats as the minimum for a complete ferment — so apple juice being nitrogen-poor is the ordinary case rather than the exception. The same cultivar on the same trees moved between the two seasons, so a figure measured once does not carry forward.

Assimilable nitrogen63.7 mg/L

Ithaca, New York, United States, 2016 · Rack-and-cloth pressed juice from a mixed culinary and European cider apple blend · Song, Gibney, Cheng, Liu and Peck, Frontiers in Microbiology 11:1264

One juice rather than a survey, recorded because the rest of that study’s findings only mean anything against it: this is the starting nitrogen from which three phosphate treatments were built. It sits almost exactly on the Virginia survey mean and well below the wine minimum.

The nitrogen yeast can actually use. Cider juice is often short of it, which is why ferments stall. Measured in milligrams per litre.

What forms it

Processes that put this compound into the drink, or increase how much of it is there.

What removes or limits it

Processes that reduce it, hold it below a threshold, or stop it forming in the first place.

Faults it is implicated in

Being implicated is not the same as being a fault. Several of the compounds on this site are ordinary constituents of a sound cider and define a named fault only above a concentration.

Organisms that produce it

Which organism is responsible usually decides whether the compound is a feature or a symptom.

Nitrogen and sulphide are not a straight lineTwo yeast strains fermenting one apple juice at three nitrogen levels. The middle level produced the most hydrogen sulphide; one strain produced none at any level.0100200300123.750Low22.3 mg/L288.250Intermediate144.3 mg/L44.1250High369.3 mg/Lµg H₂S per 100 mLDiammonium phosphate addedStrain UCD522Strain UCD932 — none detectedBase juice 63.7 mg N/L, fermented at 20 °C
Two yeast strains fermenting one apple juice at three nitrogen levels. The middle level produced the most hydrogen sulphide; one strain produced none at any level.
Described in full
Shape
A grouped bar chart. Three groups along the bottom are the three diammonium phosphate treatments — low at 22.3, intermediate at 144.3 and high at 369.3 milligrams per litre, all added to one juice that already carried 63.7 milligrams of assimilable nitrogen per litre. Each group holds two bars, one per yeast strain, and each bar is labelled with its value.
Strain UCD522
Low 123.75, intermediate 288.25, high 44.125 micrograms of hydrogen sulphide per 100 millilitres. The intermediate treatment produced twice what the low one did and more than six times what the high one did.
Strain UCD932
Zero at all three treatments. No hydrogen sulphide was detected from this strain regardless of how much nitrogen it was given, so its three bars are drawn as a flat line at the axis and labelled “none detected”.
The threshold line
A dashed horizontal reference is not drawn, because the sensory threshold — about 0.41 micrograms per litre — is roughly a thousandth of the smallest bar here and would sit indistinguishably on the axis. That is the point worth taking away: every one of these fermentations was far above the concentration a nose can find.
What it corrects
The common rule is that low nitrogen causes sulphide and adding nutrient cures it. On these data, adding some nutrient was worse than adding none, and adding a lot was better than either — but only for the strain that made sulphide at all. Strain choice came before nitrogen.
Scope
One juice, one temperature — 20 degrees Celsius — one pitching rate, two strains, three treatments, in triplicate. The shape of the relationship is the finding; the numbers belong to this experiment.

About Yeast-assimilable nitrogen

Yeast is mostly protein, and protein is mostly nitrogen. To ferment a juice a yeast must first build a population, and the size of the population it can build is set by how much usable nitrogen the juice contains. Not all nitrogen counts: yeast can use ammonium and most free amino acids, but it cannot use proline anaerobically, and apple juice carries a substantial share of its nitrogen as exactly that. The figure that matters, assimilable nitrogen, is therefore smaller than a total nitrogen analysis suggests, and in cider it is often much smaller.

Why apple juice is short of it is a question about trees rather than about juice. An apple is a low-nitrogen fruit to begin with; the tree preferentially directs nitrogen to leaves and wood, and traditional cider orchards — grassed down, unfertilised, often with old standard trees carrying heavy crops — produce fruit lower in nitrogen still. Fruit stored for weeks before milling loses more. Where wine grapes routinely arrive at levels adequate for a clean ferment, cider apples routinely do not, and it is not unusual to find a juice at a third of what would be considered sufficient.

The consequences arrive in two forms, and both are commonly misdiagnosed. The first is a ferment that slows, sticks, or crawls for months. A yeast that could not build a proper population, and that then had to break down its own sugar transporters for nitrogen when the supply ran out, cannot finish, and the sugar it cannot finish is fructose. The second is hydrogen sulphide, because yeast reduces sulphate to sulphide as a matter of routine and needs a nitrogen skeleton to attach the sulphide to; if there is none, the sulphide leaves as gas. A cider that smells of rotten eggs is not usually dirty. It is hungry. Very low nitrogen also raises fusel alcohol production, so the ferment tastes hot and coarse as well.

The fix is to measure the juice and to feed the ferment — ammonium salts, complex organic nutrients, or both, added at pitching and again a third of the way through, since a single large addition at the start is used inefficiently and can encourage the wrong organisms. Thiamine is worth attending to alongside, because it is often limiting in cider juice as well, and a nitrogen addition alone will not fix a thiamine shortage.

And then there is keeving, which does the opposite on purpose. The whole point of the keeve is that the floating calcium pectate raft takes the juice’s nitrogen with it as it rises, leaving a clear juice too poor to support a complete fermentation. The ferment crawls, produces very little in the way of fusel and ester character, and finally stops with several per cent of sugar unfermented. A traditional French cidre doux is sweet because a maker deliberately starved the yeast. This is the clearest illustration in cider of a principle that runs through all of it: the same chemistry is a fault or a technique depending entirely on whether it was chosen.

Related compounds

Compounds it is formed from, converted into, confused with, or routinely met alongside.

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Questions readers ask about the things this page mentions. Each one goes to the section that answers it rather than to a page written to receive the question.

Where to go next

Sources

What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.