Equipment
Calibration: instruments as things that need maintaining
How do I know my hydrometer, refractometer and meters are still telling the truth?
In short
A measurement is a comparison against a standard. An instrument that has not been compared against one for a season is producing a number, and a number is not a measurement.
Almost all of the checks are free. Distilled water zeroes a refractometer and tests a hydrometer, an ice bath tests a thermometer, and two buffer solutions calibrate a pH meter.
The other half of the work is correction rather than calibration. A hydrometer read at 8 °C in an unheated store is not reading what it would at the temperature its scale was made for, and that correction is either applied every time or it is not applied at all.
Zeroing a refractometer
The routine is a minute long. Clean the prism and the cover plate, put a few drops of distilled or deionised water on the prism, close the plate so the film is even and free of bubbles, wait for the water and the instrument to reach the same temperature, and adjust the screw — or press the zero function — until the boundary sits exactly on zero. Then wipe dry with a soft cloth and go to work.
The reasons it needs doing are unglamorous. The calibration screw moves with handling and vibration. The prism gets scratched and the cover plate loses its flatness. Above all, sugar dries: a film of juice left on the prism at the end of a session dries to a residue that becomes part of every subsequent reading, and no amount of squinting at the scale reveals it. An instrument that has spent a year in a drawer with last autumn’s juice on it will read confidently and wrongly.
Automatic temperature compensation is often misunderstood. It corrects the instrument’s own optical response to temperature; it does not correct for a sample and a prism that are at different temperatures. Juice straight off a press in September and a refractometer that has been in a cold shed are not the same temperature, and the reading taken in the first two seconds is not the reading taken after twenty. Let the drop sit until the number stops moving.
The remaining discipline is sample handling. Two drops from a stirred, representative sample; not the first juice off a spout, not a drip from a hand, not a sample taken from the top of a tank that has stratified. The instrument is capable of more precision than the sampling usually deserves.
The hydrometer’s two corrections
The first is an offset check. Float the hydrometer in distilled water at its calibration temperature; it should read 1.000. If it reads 1.002 it is not necessarily useless — an offset that is known and constant is entirely workable, because fermentation monitoring measures a difference between two readings and a constant offset cancels out of a difference. What matters is knowing the offset and applying it consistently, and retiring the instrument when the offset starts to change, which usually means the paper scale has slipped inside the stem.
The second is temperature. Every hydrometer carries a calibration temperature printed on the scale — commonly 20 °C, sometimes 15 °C, occasionally something else — and a reading taken away from it needs a correction, because the liquid’s density and the glass’s volume both change with temperature. Published correction tables exist for the purpose and the supplier normally provides one. The correction is small within a few degrees of the calibration point and grows quickly beyond it, and in a cider house at 6 °C in December it is routinely larger than the change in gravity the maker is trying to detect between two readings a week apart.
That is the whole argument for treating this as maintenance rather than as a refinement. A hydrometer used carelessly on cold samples produces a series of readings whose scatter swamps the signal, and the maker concludes the ferment is doing something odd when the instrument is simply being read wrong. Taking the sample’s temperature at the same moment as its gravity, every time, costs nothing and makes the whole series usable.
Two physical checks belong here too. A chipped or cracked stem changes the volume the instrument displaces and therefore everything it reads. A greasy stem changes the shape of the meniscus, so a hydrometer that has been handled with buttery fingers reads differently from one that has been washed — which is a good reason to rinse and dry it after every use rather than dropping it back in the tube wet.
The rest of the bench
- pH meter: two-point calibration with fresh buffers at the sample temperature at the start of any session where the number will drive a decision, and a check against a buffer mid-session without recalibrating, so that drift is visible rather than absorbed.
- Buffers: poured out for use and discarded, never returned to the bottle, and replaced on their stated shelf life. A bottle that has been dipped into all season is no longer a standard.
- Thermometer or probe: checked in a well-stirred ice-and-water bath, which is reliably at 0 °C, and against boiling water with the local boiling point in mind. Two points reveal a slope error that one point hides.
- Titration alkali: sodium hydroxide absorbs carbon dioxide from the air and weakens, so it is standardised against a known acid or replaced on age rather than trusted because the bottle says a concentration.
- Balance: checked against a calibration mass, and used on a level surface out of a draught. A balance reading a tenth of a gram in a doorway is reading the wind.
- Cross-checks: read the same unfermented juice with the refractometer and the hydrometer. They should tell a consistent story, and a persistent disagreement is a signal that one of them needs attention.
- Dissolved oxygen sensors, conductivity cells and anything else with a membrane or a cap: on the manufacturer’s schedule, because their consumables have service lives that are not obvious from looking at them.
The record is part of the instrument
A calibration that nobody wrote down has to be assumed rather than known, and the assumption is always optimistic. The workable practice is a single page or a single file per instrument with a date, what it was checked against, what it read, and what was done about it. Instruments themselves get a label with the date of the last check, so that the question can be answered by looking rather than by remembering.
This is what turns a small producer’s data into something worth having. Bench instruments do not need to agree with a laboratory to be useful; they need to agree with themselves across seasons. A run of gravities, pH values and acidities taken on the same instruments, checked the same way, over five years, says a great deal about a cider house. The same readings taken on whatever was to hand say almost nothing.
The last part of maintenance is retirement. A pH probe that will not hold a slope, a hydrometer whose offset is wandering, a refractometer whose prism is scratched across the field of view — each of these will go on producing numbers indefinitely, which is precisely the problem. Instruments are cheap relative to a season, and an instrument that is being argued with has already answered the question.
Precision and accuracy are not the same thing
Also answered on this page
Questions this page covers, so you can tell at a glance whether it is the one you want.
- How do I calibrate a refractometer?
- Do I need to temperature-correct a hydrometer reading?
- How often should cider instruments be checked?
Related
Production
Gravity measurement
Production
Fermentation monitoring
Production
Acid adjustment
Production
Sulphiting
Topic
The hydrometer and the trial jar
Topic
The refractometer, and why it lies during fermentation
Topic
The pH meter and its calibration
Topic
Thermometers and temperature measurement
Topic
Titration kits for total acidity
Topic
Laboratory measurement versus practical measurement
Topic
Dissolved oxygen meters
Topic
Maintenance and the off-season
What people ask next
Questions readers ask about the things this page mentions. Each one goes to the section that answers it rather than to a page written to receive the question.
- Do i need a ph meter for cider, and how do i keep it accurate — A pH meter consists of a glass electrode that develops a small voltage proportional to hydrogen ion activity, a reference electrode, and a meter that converts that voltage into a pH reading.
- How do i know when my cider has finished fermenting — Take two hydrometer readings several days apart: if the gravity has not moved, the ferment is over. Airlock activity is not a reliable test, because a slow ferment can produce gas too slowly to see.
- How do i use a hydrometer to measure cider — A hydrometer floats at a depth determined by the density of the liquid it is in. Sugary juice is denser than water, so the hydrometer floats high; as fermentation converts sugar to alcohol the density falls and it sinks.
- How long does cider take to ferment — A warm ferment with cultured yeast can finish in one to two weeks; a cool wild ferment in a cellar may take three months or more. Slow is not the same as stuck — the test is whether gravity is still falling.
- Can i use a refractometer to track cider fermentation
- How do i measure the acidity of cider
Sources
What this page rests on. Where a source is marked as registered rather than read, CiderHQ is recording that the body is authoritative on the subject without claiming to have worked through the document itself. See our evidence policy for what each state means.
The Science of Cidermaking and associated technical writing
Andrew Lea · reference work · passage verified 2026-08-24
Written by a food chemist who worked at Long Ashton on apple phenolics. Unusual among specialist cider writing in that it is primary-research-adjacent: the author is describing work he did, and cites the literature. This is why it is registered at tier 1 for chemistry while a general cider book is not.
Cider and perry production technical training material
Peter Mitchell / Cider and Perry Academy · reference work · registered as competent for this subject
Searched again on 2026-08-25 and it remains the one printed source here that a bibliographic check cannot fix, because it is not a published work with an edition. It is course material issued to participants of a training programme, so there is no catalogue record to verify, no ISBN, and no lawful public copy. Its state stays `registered` for that reason rather than through inattention.
The New Cider Maker’s Handbook: A Comprehensive Guide for Craft Producers
Claude Jolicoeur, Chelsea Green Publishing, 2013. ISBN 9781603584739 · reference work · bibliographic record verified, not opened 2026-08-25
Bibliographic record verified on 2026-08-25 against the Open Library union catalogue: Chelsea Green Publishing, 2013, ISBN 9781603584739, one edition recorded. That establishes the citation points at a real book in a stated edition, which is what a citation needs and is all it establishes. No copy was opened and nothing is quoted from it. The book itself is in print and not digitised in any open collection; where CiderHQ needs a figure from this territory it uses an accessible research source instead and says so.
Where to go next
- Cider making equipment — The rest of the equipment material, grouped by what each piece is for.
- How cider is made — The methods this equipment exists to carry out.
- Troubleshooting — The faults that are traced back to equipment and to cleaning.